by A. Hyatt Verrill
From The Wide World Magazine, 1928, unsure which issue
I started
to study the works and life of A. Hyatt Verrill almost 20 years ago. Verrill
was contracted by the originator of the Museum of the American Indian, George
Heye, to produce quite a few of these paintings. There were subsequent problems
between the two. It appears that only 48 were ever delivered. Possibly an equal
number were sold privately. His autobiography, Never a Dull Moment, published
by Stillwoods, features one of these private paintings on the cover. This is
the first full description of how these paintings were created.
I have
substituted colour paintings where they were available, of course they were
b&w in the original article./drf.
Very few men know more about the Indians of Central and
South America than the Author, who has travelled far and wide among tribes who
seldom set eyes on a white man. For years past he has been building up, for
museum purposes, a series of pictures, painted from life, depicting Indians in
ceremonial costumes or engaged in their daily avocations. This article
describes some of his experiences while at work among these little-known races.
TO secure really good photographs of “wild”
Indians is not by any means an easy matter; and when I say “wild” Indians, I
mean Indians who have not been in close contact with civilization, and not
necessarily hostile or unfriendly tribes.
Indeed, one of the ethnologist’s greatest problems is
to obtain pictures which are of scientific value as permanent records. This is
especially true of the Indians of Central and South America, many of whom have
scarcely been visited by white men, and most of whom are still in a far more
primitive and unsophisticated state than the Red men of North America.
Usually, when one attempts to photograph these Indians,
the prospective subjects either hide or run away, or else—in the case of those
who are more civilized—assume such artificial and obviously posed positions
and expressions that the results remind one of the old-fashioned photographs in
the family album.
Indians, as a rule, strongly object to being
photographed, even when they have never seen a camera before and have no idea
what the instrument is for. To them it savours of witchcraft or magic, and
while they may not actually fear it they feel that it is a good thing to keep
away from. Moreover, the Indians dread the camera’s “eye.” The staring lens
that “winks” in such a mysterious manner is, to their minds, the eye of some
spirit who lives within the black box and is quite capable of looking into
their minds and reading their most secret thoughts.
So great is their dread of this spirit-eye that if the
lens is visible they will not approach within the camera’s range of vision.
This is often a great convenience, for when one desires to be left alone, or
wishes to guard against the curiosity and inquisitiveness of one’s Indian
hosts, it is only necessary to open a camera and leave it in plain sight.
As long as the little glass “eye” is there to see, no
Indian will approach, no matter how great the temptation may be. Many a time I
have left my trade goods and other possessions fully exposed in the open,
shed-like hut of an Indian village, and have been absent for days, feeling
perfectly confident that the camera left on guard would prevent any native from
rummaging through my property.
And here let me remark that the South American Indian
is, until civilized, absolutely honest. He will not steal; but he is intensely
curious, and delights in examining anything and everything the stranger
possesses. He may rummage through one’s belongings, and even carry off handfuls
of objects to show to friends and relatives, but he will invariably return them
eventually. Nevertheless, it is not always desirable to have one’s possessions
pulled about and hopelessly mixed when one is not present, and on such
occasions an open camera is a most useful watch-dog.
INDIAN “PROXIES.”
A very potent
factor in the Indians’ attitude toward the camera’s “eye” is their
almost universal belief in what may be called “proxies,” which are widely used
among nearly all Central and South American tribes. These
take the form of crude wooden, terra-cotta, or even stone effigies, which
travellers often erroneously look on as idols or gods, but which in reality have
no religious or sacred significance whatever, merely
serving to take the place of some
person or creature.
Thus the
medicine-men of the Kunas, Tegualas, and other tribes of Panama use wooden
figures to aid them in curing illness. As the medicine-man cannot remain
constantly beside his patients, he places a wooden image near the sick man or
woman, the little figure taking the doctor’s place and serving as his proxy.
If, on his next visit, the medicine-man finds no
great improvement in his patient’s condition, another “proxy” is placed on
guard, and very often a sick Indian will be surrounded by several dozen “imitation
doctors” of this kind.
Among other
tribes, such as the Guaymís, “proxies” are carried to even greater lengths.
When a man is compelled to leave his house untenanted
for a few days, in order to go on a hunt or a journey with his family, he does
not bother to lock or bar his doors. Instead, he places a crude wooden effigy
outside and goes forth perfectly confident that no one will enter during his
absence.
Not only does the “proxy” deter trespassers by its mere
presence, but the Indian believes that in some mysterious manner the figure
left on guard will warn him if anyone attempts to enter the house, and will
actually make known the identity of the trespasser! The Indian is convinced
that a “proxy,” no matter how crude, is possessed with the
spirit of the person or creature it purports to represent. Hence, to his mind,
the camera is the “proxy” of the owner, and possessed with the white man’s
spirit.
Moreover, when he learns the purpose of the camera, or has
it explained to him, he is
more reluctant than ever to have his
picture taken. He believes that the likeness or image of a person must
inevitably possess the spirit, or at least a portion of the spirit, of the
subject. A photograph of himself, carried far
away, must take with it
some of his spirit, which he
naturally does not care to part with.
Quite frequently I have found that this objection may
be overcome by giving the subject himself a copy of the photograph, for then he
feels he has lost nothing, and—blissfully unaware of such
things as negatives—he is quite content, regarding the portrait as a
valuable “proxy” for his own use.
Oddly enough, most of the South American Indians have a
remarkable way of looking at pictures upside down! Among the innumerable tribes I have visited I have
never found an Indian—except those who had been in close touch with
civilization and had learned better—who did not follow this strange custom.
With the pictures right-side-up the Indians would stare
at them uncomprehendingly, their faces expressionless and blank; but
the instant one of their number turned the photograph bottom-up they would
become excited and interested, and would point, chatter, and laugh as they
recognized the features of themselves or their friends,
Another factor which adds to the difficulties of
securing good photographs of these South American Indians is the fact that they
usually dwell in dense jungles or forests where the light is poor and there are
usually heavy shadows, while, with the well-known perversity of things
inanimate, it usually rains or is dull at the very moment when all other
conditions are propitious for securing the desired pictures.
If the light is good, the confidence of the Indians
won, and a member of the tribe has been prevailed upon to brave the magic eye
of the camera, the result is usually far from satisfactory, for the subject
forthwith assumes a set, martyred expression entirely unlike his natural self.
Having encountered such difficulties, as well as many
others, including the development of mould on negatives and films, the
ruination of cameras by water, and such minor incidents, during many years’
experience among South and Central American tribes, and having frequently
failed to secure the pictures I most desired, I decided that the only practical
method of obtaining satisfactory likenesses of the Indians was to paint their
portraits.
DIFFICULTIES OF
TRANSPORT.
This, however, did not prove as easy and simple as it
sounds. In the first place, to carry canvas, colours, brushes, and drawing
materials into the jungles and forests and across vast mountain ranges was a
problem in itself. In penetrating the fastnesses of the South American
wilderness, and visiting little-known and remote regions, every superfluous
ounce of dunnage must be discarded.
For days and weeks travel is by dug-out canoes along
rivers filled with cataracts and rapids, where one’s craft must be hauled
through whirlpools and fierce currents by straining, tugging Indians. Portages
are frequent and often long and arduous; washouts and capsizes are all in the
day’s work, and provisions for the boat’s crew and oneself must be carried,
together with clothing, trade goods, and other essentials.
Not infrequently it is impossible to transport a canoe
round a fall or cataract, and it becomes necessary to portage the whole outfit
through the jungles to the head of the falls and there construct flimsy, cranky
“woodskins”—fragile craft made from cylindrical sections
of bark—in which to continue the journey. Often, too, the
rivers may be far too shallow
to permit the laden craft to pass,
and all cargo must be unloaded and carried piecemeal for miles up-stream.
On one trip to the Shayshan Indians of Central America
more than fifty portages were made in one day; and
later on, while two men pushed and
lifted the canoe over the
shoals, the others and myself tramped for more than sixty miles over
the only possible route—the uneven, slippery, water-worn cobbles of the
dried-up river-bed. Even
when travel is by land the difficulties
of transportation are great.
Much of the forest
is impenetrable until a path
has been cut with machetes; and often
the way leads through apparently bottomless swamps or
up the precipitous sides of jungle-covered mountains. Very
frequently, too, it is necessary to cross deserts or endless grassy savannahs where
there is little or no water, where
the sun beats down like a furnace or else rain falls in torrents,
and where the dust and the pollen from the grasses fill one’s eyes, nose, and mouth.
Under such arduous conditions, every additional ounce of weight becomes the equivalent
of a hundredweight, so far as transportation problems go; and paints, canvas,
stretchers, and similar things are by
no means light.
Even when one has solved the difficulties of transport
and reached an Indian camp, one’s troubles are not over. There is nothing mysterious or
magical about drawing or
painting, even to the suspicious and
superstitious Indian mind, for with few
exceptions the Indian is something of an artist himself. But he much prefers
watching the painter to serving as a model, while the interested, chattering
crowd that gathers round effectually
shuts off the subject even if,
after endless trouble, he
or she has been induced to
remain fairly quiet for the time being.
Occasionally an Indian is found
who is a born model,
but his or her lot is not a
particularly happy one. The sitter
at once becomes the butt of laughter, raillery,
jokes, and good-natured chaffing from every man, woman, and child
of the village. Wizened old hags
warn him of the dangers of
getting his spirit into the picture; and,
as a rule, after one or two trials, the model gives up
in despair and runs away, or else assumes a set, fixed expression, as if undergoing some ceremonial torture.
WORKING IN SECRET.
I speedily discovered that ordinary methods would not
serve in painting the Indians of the tribes I visited. Instead of at once
proceeding to paint the people, therefore, I made brief and hurried pencil-sketches,
working surreptitiously when my subjects were not looking or were busy at their
various tasks.
I would jot down a bit here, a bit there; sometimes
getting a nose, an ear, or half a face before the subject was aware of what I
was doing; sometimes succeeding in drawing an entire head or figure, and
often having great fun when some Indian would slip quietly up behind me and shout the
news of his discovery, whereupon every member of the village
would gather about, examining the sketches,
holding them upside down, and
shouting and laughing with glee at the
various bits of anatomy on my sketch-pad.
Oftentimes, too, I
made great headway by making drawings of various birds and animals, which I distributed among the Indians,
who, in return, would allow themselves
to be sketched. To supplement these hastily-made
pictures, I would make equally
rapid and usually unsuspected colour-sketches of costumes, facial decorations, and so on.
Sometimes, however, this proved difficult. On one occasion I
found myself without the
needed colour for recording the peculiar
ochre-brown shade of the Indians’ skins, a
shade which would, I knew, be impossible to carry in my mind;
but I solved the problem in a rather unusual way. Gathering a number of dried leaves
of various shades of brown, I matched the Indians’ complexions and carefully
preserved the leaves, which were of exactly
the same colour.
Very often,
too, photographs — even
when entirely unsatisfactory as scientific records, or even for reproduction—proved
great helps in working up the portraits of the Indians in oils. Especially was this true
of postures and attitudes assumed in ceremonial dances, religious
rites, occupations, and so on. Quick snapshots taken without the subjects’
knowledge would record a position or attitude, even if all
details of features and costume were hazy or lacking. But I had to be most
circumspect in securing such snapshots.
Once let an Indian catch sight of the camera and one or
two results was sure to occur. Either they would scurry to cover, buzzing
somewhat angrily at having their ceremonies interrupted. or they would all halt
in their tracks and stand staring at me. To obviate this, I found it necessary
to conceal the instrument under my garments or inside a hut, and trust to luck
and guesswork in snapping the shutter with the lens pointed from under my coat
or through a chink in a wall.
Even with my
sketches, my photographs, my notes,
and my colour-keys to aid me, an immense amount of material was required in
order to work up an accurate painting. Frequently I have used over fifty sketches,
several dozen photographs, and as
many colour-records in painting a
single Indian; while hundreds of sketches, colour-charts, and photographs are necessary when painting
a dance or a ceremonial group.
In nearly every case I have been careful to introduce
only those costumes, ornaments, and implements which I actually collected, and
which are now in the Museum of the American Indian. Thus the pictures become
valuable ethnological records, and when it is desired to construct life-sized
groups they can be used as guides, the identical costumes and decorations
depicted being used on the models.
GORGEOUS HEAD-DRESSES.
One immense advantage that such pictures possess is
that they show the gorgeous colouring of the Indians’ costumes. This is
especially true of the feather headdresses, particularly those of the
tribes of the interior of Brazil and Guiana. These are
crown-like affairs of most brilliantly-coloured parrot and macaw feathers,
fastened to a framework of basketry and topped off by several long scarlet,
orange, or blue feathers from the tails of macaws.
At the rear, a long train or
“bob”
of gaudy feathers—humming
bird, cock-of-the-rock, parrot, and
toucan skins—hangs down the
wearer’s back, and often a magnificent
feather cape or mantle is
also worn. Much of the detail and all the colour of such regalia are
lost in photographs.
The same is true of the colours of the Indians’ skins.
In this respect the pictures prove a revelation to many people who are
accustomed to thinking of all
Indians as “red men” or
copper-coloured. Among the South and Central American tribes the colour varies from a rich brown to a pale yellow or olive, and many of these Indians are
so fair-skinned that if dressed in conventional garb they would readily pass
for white. This is also true of their features.
With few exceptions, the South American Indian bears
little facial resemblance to his Northern
cousins. Seldom do we see the high and prominent cheek-bones, the aquiline nose, thin lips, and strong chin which have become accepted as typical of the Indian.
Instead, the South American Indians, as a whole, have rather flat, broad noses,
rounded cheeks, full lips, and receding chins.
Among the Andean tribes of Peru are many with enormous
beak-like noses—the so-called “Inca nose”—and
among the Mapuches, or as they are more commonly called the “Araucanians” of
Southern Chile, we find regular Caucasian features, with well-developed beards
and moustaches. We should never recognize these people as Indians if they were
dressed in everyday clothes and met with in city streets.
Although comparatively few people realize the fact,
there are many times more Indians in South America than in North America, and
no one can say positively just how many tribes inhabit the jungles, forests,
and mountains of the great southern continent.
Of course, it would be
practically impossible to
paint the whole
of these in a single lifetime, but much headway
has already been made, and eventually it is hoped that all of the
more important and characteristic types will be preserved on canvas.
A series showing the types, occupations, and dances of
all the British Guiana tribes, together with
several Panama tribes, was completed
two years ago, and is now in the Museum of the American Indian; paintings
of all the tribes of Panama, and many of Peru
and Chile, were completed last year; and
this year I expect to finish the series illustrating the Peruvian,
Bolivian, and Chilean tribes.
I have often been asked if I am not afraid
of these Indians, and if
I have not been in constant
jeopardy while among them. This is a most natural
question, as the public has been bountifully supplied with exaggerated tales
of ferocious headhunters, lurking assassins with poisoned
arrows, and unprovoked attacks, so that the
average man thinks of all “wild” Indians as hostile. As a matter
of fact, I very much doubt whether
any Central or South American tribe ever wantonly attacked a white man without provocation.
Of course the innocent
may have suffered for the guilty at times, and Indians who have suffered at
the hands of Venezuelans, Brazilians, and others, or who have been ill-treated
by prospectors, rubber-gatherers, and
adventurers, have often, no doubt, evened up
scores by taking reprisals on white men
who were in
no way responsible for the abuses. But such cases are
rare.
As a rule the
Indians are discriminating, take the stranger at his face value, and
treat him according to his deserts.
Personally, I have never been attacked or
even threatened by Indians,
and I have visited many
remote and almost unknown tribes. Some of these were reputably
savage and hostile, and
not a few had
every reason to make short work
of any white man
they met.
As a rule, I
have found these tribes hospitable,
friendly, and most delightful people—as
long as they are untouched by civilization and have not learned the white men’s
vices. To be sure, on
one or two occasions I have
passed some most unpleasant hours
and have had some narrow escapes
from serious trouble, but in
every such case the fault was my own,
or was due to some act on the part of
my men or to a misunderstanding.
A NARROW SHAVE.
On one occasion,
while visiting a remote
Carib village in the hinterland of Guiana I found
the Indians engaged in a religious ceremony and wrought up to a high pitch of
excitement. As I arrived, followed by my retinue of Indian boatmen and their
women, who served as porters, I noticed an ugly expression on the face of the
chief, who was beating a ceremonial drum with a human leg-bone.
Instead of turning and welcoming me, as I greeted him
in Caribee, the old fellow only banged his drum the harder, while his eyes
fairly blazed and his painted face took on a demoniacal expression. I noticed,
also, that the other Caribs were drawing nearer, that each had grasped a club,
bow, or spear, and that we were
entirely surrounded by a cordon of
armed warriors.
I was utterly
at a loss to account for such behaviour, for the Caribs are usually friendly and good-natured. For a time
things looked ugly. I could not
get a word out of the Indians;
there were no replies to my questions, no explanation of
their hostile attitude.
My black camp-boy was fairly shaking in his boots; the
docile Indian boatmen were evidently frightened almost out of their wits, and I
have no doubt that serious consequences would have resulted within the next two
minutes if it had not been for the timely appearance of a young Carib whose
village I had visited a few days previously, and who chanced to arrive at the
psychological moment.
In a few words he cleared up the matter, and then I no
longer wondered that the Carib chief was sullen. Some time previous to my
visit, it appeared, a young buck of the village had run off with the chief’s
favourite wife. To add insult to injury, the rascal had joined my party as a
boatman and had had the effrontery to bring his lady friend with him into her
ex-husband’s camp, trusting no doubt to my presence to safeguard him from the
righteous vengeance of the wronged chief.
Once the reason for the Caribs’ attitude was made
clear, I lost no time in straightening matters out. Cuffing and kicking the
offending Indian from the village, and driving him and his woman to the boats,
I ordered him to be off. Liberal presents of knives, files, and other trade
goods mollified the angry chief, and presently we were all on the friendliest
of terms.
THE SACRED COSTUMES.
On another occasion, while travelling up a Guiana
river, I found a number of the strange parasara dance costumes hanging on snags or tacubas in the stream. The Indians wear these costumes of palm
and fibre in the parasara
dance, and after the ceremony, which is of a most sacred and religious
character, the dresses are suspended from trees in the fields and snags in the
rivers in order to keep evil spirits away.
These ceremonial robes are extremely rare in
collections, and as I felt confident that no Indians were near, I helped myself
to several of the costumes and—to guard against any possible chance of discovery— hid
them from sight under the floorboards of the batteau, beneath all my dunnage.
Several days later we arrived at a Patamona village
where a bimiti-running was in full swing. This ceremonial always
follows the parasara, and usually ends
in an orgy of drinking. Leaving two men in charge of my boat, I made my way to
the village, which was at some distance from the river, and found the Indians
hilarious and excited but friendly and good-natured. An hour or so later,
however, the camp was like a hornets’ nest which has been poked with a stick.
Two of the men had been to the riverside, and had
returned bringing news that promised to make it decidedly hot for me, for they
reported that three of their sacred parasara
costumes were among my belongings! How they had discovered the dresses I could
not at the time understand, but later I learned that my over-zealous boatmen
had decided to take advantage of my absence to clean the boat, and had unloaded
everything, including the sacred costumes, which were in plain sight on the
river’s bank.
Fortunately for all concerned, the Patamonas were, on
the whole, still sober enough to listen to my explanations and to reason.
Declaring that I had been quite ignorant of the sacredness of the dresses, and
did not even know they belonged to the Patamonas, I expressed the deepest
regret for the mistake on my part and offered amends in the shape of presents.
Somewhat mollified, the Patamonas considered the
matter, and after a conference and much discussion the village peaiman or medicine-man announced that everything would be all
right if I would go back down the river, accompanied by some of the Patamonas,
and replace the costumes where I had found them. There
was nothing else to be done, so, willy-nilly, I was forced to retrace my way down-stream, hang
the dresses on the snags again, and travel the weary journey back to the camp.
Needless to say,
when, a few days later, I left the Indians and headed downriver,
I did not fail to again gather in the costumes which had caused the trouble; but
I was careful not to visit those particular Patamonas again.
On one other trip I also underwent a most unpleasant
experience, and one which I would scarcely care to repeat. That
was when I was among the mountain Guaymis
of Panama—Indians usually regarded as
hostile and who certainly do not welcome the average stranger who enters their
territory. But I had been most
fortunate. I had rendered one of the sub-chiefs a favour,
and, in return, he had vouched
for me and had accompanied me to the most remote villages of his tribe, and had
enabled me to meet and make friends with the high chief, Montezuma.
A great ceremonial and dance had been given
in my honour; the chiefs had
compelled various members of the tribe to permit me to photograph and sketch them, and,
as a grand finale, I had
been formally initiated as a
medicine-chief of the tribe. This experience I described in The Wide World Magazine for February -
March, 1927.
Everything had been favourable, and the
usually suspicious and rather
hostile Indians proved most
friendly and hospitable, doing
all they could to make my
trip a huge success. Then an event
transpired which, for a time, threatened to end in a tragedy.
One morning a number of Indians from a remote village visited the chief’s
house, and though several objected strenuously, their ruler forced them to line
up to be photographed.
That evening, as I lolled in my hammock in the home of
the chief, listening to the chatter of some twenty painted and feather-crowned
Guaymis who had gathered within the dwelling, a young Indian quietly entered
and seated himself in a shadowy spot at one side of the house.
Instantly I recognized him as one of the strangers I
had photographed that morning, for his head-dress was most unusual, consisting
of a huge cap or hood of sloth-skin. Presently the newcomer uttered an agonized
groan, and as all eyes turned toward him he doubled up, grasped his stomach,
and rolled, moaning and screaming, on the floor.
AN AWKWARD PREDICAMENT.
Instantly I realized that
I was face to face with the gravest danger. The fellow had been photographed
against his will, he had come into my presence, and almost immediately he had
been taken seriously ill. To the assembled Indians this would mean but one
thing: I had bewitched him!
And as many of the others present had also been
photographed they would at once believe that they, too, would be taken ill.
And what if the fellow died? Each and every Indian
would, I knew, attribute his death to me, and every one would be in mortal
terror of a similar fate as long as I lived to “control” their spirits. To be
sure, the chief, Neonandi, was a sensible fellow and my best friend, and I was,
moreover, an adopted member of the tribe.
But even the chief, I felt sure, would be powerless to
curb the Indians’ anger once they were convinced that I had caused a man’s
death, and my honorary membership in the tribe would count for nothing. And,
judging by the fierce expressions on the faces of the Indians, and the manner
in which they regarded me, I felt that my own end would not be long delayed,
especially as the sick man was apparently on the point of expiring.
Aided by Neonandi, I carried him into the light of the
fire and feverishly administered every remedy I could think of, at the same
time plying the chief with questions. Did anyone know if this man was subject
to these sudden attacks? Had they ever seen him act in this manner before? Did
they know if he had eaten anything which might have caused his illness? But no
one could give me the slightest information.
In fact, not an Indian present even knew who the sick
man was or anything about him. He was a stranger, the only member of his
village present.
Despite my every effort, the poor fellow was apparently
dying, and presently with a last convulsive kick and a gasping groan, he
stiffened and lay still. I listened for a heart-beat, but found none; I placed
a mirror before his lips, but there was no sign of breath; I turned up his
eyelids and exposed glassy, fixed eyes.
Meanwhile the Indians, grim, forbidding, and silent,
drew nearer in the shadows, while above me and the body of the Indian beside
which I knelt stood the chief, arguing, haranguing, and trying his utmost to
calm his warriors. He assured them that the “white medicine-chief” would
speedily bring the cause of the trouble back to life. He was, I knew, playing
for time, and at last he succeeded. One by one, the Indians drew back into the
shadows, squatting on the floor or on low, wooden stools, but never once taking
their eyes from me.
There was nothing more I could do. I had wrapped the
apparently dead man in blankets, I had forced stimulants down his throat, I had
tried artificial respiration, but with no signs of success. How much longer the
superstitious Guaymís would wait for a miracle to happen I did not know, but I
rather wished that they would get the business over and not prolong the
suspense.
However, my play was to appear unconcerned, to act as
if I felt entirely confident and at ease, and, controlling my real sensations,
I calmly filled and lighted my pipe and seated myself once more in my hammock.
Slowly the minutes passed. Never in my life have I
undergone a more trying ordeal, and then, when it seemed as if the suspense
would never end, the miracle happened! The blanket-wrapped
body moved; the dead Indian sat up. Rubbing his eyes, he glanced about, rose
unsteadily to his feet, and turning, stalked from the house into the night! He
had merely had a fit, but I almost fainted from relief, and the assembled
Indians firmly believed I had worked mighty magic.
I had brought a dead man back to life, and they gazed
upon me with a strange mingling of awe, respect, and terror. But I thanked my
lucky stars that during the remainder of my stay among the Guaymís I was not
called upon to repeat my magic and resurrect a really dead Indian!