Sunday, 6 September 2009

Bimshaw, the Pirate - Part 1, 1918

Bimshaw, the Pirate Part 1, 1918

Bimshaw, the Pirate By A. HYATT VERRILL Part 1 of a serialized story from The American Boy magazine, November 1918.

Digitized by Doug Frizzle, August 2009.

Illustrated by W alt Louderback


BEYOND the rim of the sea the sun was sinking in a blaze of glory and painting the Caribbean with marvelous hues of purple and crimson, while along the beach the waving palms were silhouetted against the lurid sky like inlays of ebony on a sheet of burnished gold. The trade wind fanned our faces, rustled the jasmine that clambered above the portico and filled the air with the heavy fragrance of innumerable blossoms. Over all hung an air of romance, of mystery and the spell of the tropics, and our conversation turned to past days in the islands, of brave and bloody deeds, of pirates and of buccaneers. "Many of those old pirates changed their ways," remarked my host, "settled down and became respected members of the community, and more than one West Indian fortune had its foundation laid in pirates' loot. Indeed, this very place once belonged to a pirate, a man named Greaves; found the story of his life where it had dropped out of sight behind a drawer in an old desk. Would you care to see it?" Rising, we entered the house, and from his safe the planter drew forth a package, yellow with age, riddled by insects and covered with faded but still legible writing. "Here it is." he remarked as he handed me the manuscript. "You're welcome to it. Greaves has no living relatives as far as I know, and it's of no use to me." Eagerly I spread out the sheets, and as I read I seemed transported back two hundred years or more, to the days when the Jolly Roger flew at the mastheads of countless craft, and stately galleons, treasure laden, sailed the Spanish Main. For the story was that of Bimshaw, the pirate, written by himself and, omitting the quaint spelling and phraseology, I will present it in the following pages. CHAPTER I. AS I sit here, looking forth at the peaceful scene and listening to the prattle and laughter of Brand's children, my mind harks back to other days and other scenes which now, to me, seem more like strange dreams or nightmares than events in which I had a part. But upon the wall of my room hangs my trusty cutlass, and I have but to open my battered sea chest to see my pistols and I know—though others know it not—that beneath yon palm tree lies the carcass of that vile dog who thought to drag me again to the old life. What I have been, what I have done, has been through no wish of my own, and I have made what amends I can and, for myself, the past troubles me not at all. And, as I have no kith nor kin, my story might die and be buried with me, and none be the wiser—save Brand, to whom I owe my present lot, and his wife who, like the angel she is, has generously forgiven all. Fate plays strange pranks, and often I laugh to think what would happen were my fellows to learn who I am, I warrant me they would scatter like frightened chicks before a hawk, did they but know the worthy planter, Geofrey Greaves, was none other than Bimshaw, the pirate, even though I have the King's pardon in my chest. Dearly would I love to see their faces, were I to set my true colors, and while, for Brand's sake, I care not to make myself known, yet the humor has seized me to set down the story of my life so that when I have gone, all may read and know who it was that bore the name of Geoffrey Greaves, OF MY EARLY LIFE I know but little, for my father and mother were sent forth from Ireland to be sold as slaves in the Barbados, with many other unfortunates, during the bloody days when Cromwell’s men and the Royalists were slitting one another's throats. Fortunately for my parents, they were both bought by one man, a worthy planter, kindly hearted and with a secret sympathy for their case, and while they bore the marks of slavery upon them in the shape of branded cheeks and slit ears, yet, through my master's goodness, I was spared this barbarous disgrace. In Squire Greaves' service I grew from infancy to youth, and my lot was not hard, for my parents were treated well and my father was made an overseer, while I, as a companion to the squire's son, was taught by Master Greaves' tutors, and spent much of my time in the great house. Thus it came about that in later years, when I sought for a worthy name, I took that of one for whom I had but the kindest feelings and the greatest respect. But evil days came upon the land, pestilence visited the island, and yellow fever swept away many. Among the victims were the squire and his lady—as well as Master Dudley and my parents—and all the squire's possessions, including his slaves, were sold at auction. Then for the first time I felt the lash, for my new master was one Cranston, a dissolute scoundrel, whose greatest pleasure was to make his slaves cringe and suffer, Of my life with him I have no cause to write, and suffice to say that finding my lot unbearable, and knowing full well that to resent the cruelties I suffered would mean the pillory or the gibbet, I determined to run away. I was a sturdy, well-grown lad, and much of my labor was dragging the puncheons of rum and molasses from my master's warehouse to the lighters at the quay, and thus I came to know much of the water front and of shipping, and I determined to steal forth at night, swim to some vessel about to sail for distant ports, and hide myself on board until the land was far astern. There were many ships constantly at anchor in the roadstead, and well I knew that I must make sure to reach one which was outward bound to other lands for, did I by misadventure hide myself upon some craft which had but just arrived, or which by chance was sailing to neighboring colonies, my plight would he a sorry one. Hence I bided my time, watching the shipping and picking up chance news of the bayside from loitering seamen, until opportunity favored me and I learned that the ship Sea Venture was lying off Hastings and would sail next daybreak for New Amsterdam. I was greatly pleased at this, for among the Dutch I would be reasonably safe and, knowing the name of the ship, I could make no mistake. AT MIDNIGHT I crept forth from the kennel that served to house me, and in the shelter of the canes made my way to the highroad. I reached the beach in safety and, crouching in the shadows of the palm trees and sea grape thickets, peered forth at the twinkling lights that marked the vessels riding to their moorings in Carlisle Bay. There was no moon, but against the sky I could see the masts and rigging of the ships and at a space from the others, one which I took to be the ship which I sought. Wading far out through the warm water and braving the dangers of sharks, I swam toward the dark mass which marked my goal. I was a strong swimmer and I feared not that I would he able to reach the ship, but the way was much longer than I had thought and, though I knew it not at the time, a strong current was setting me to the southward. As I lifted my head above water from time to time and gazed ahead, the ship seemed no nearer than from the shore and, the land having become lost to view in the darkness, I became confused and knew not if I was keeping a true course or had turned about. Fears now assailed me that I might not reach the vessel, for I was greatly exhausted, and ever and anon was compelled to turn upon my back and float to ease my weary muscles. Even if I perished in the sea, even if I were devoured by a hungry shark, my fate would be better than to suffer longer in slavery ashore, so I had no mind to turn back and, truth to tell, I could not have done so had I wished, for now nothing but black sea and blacker sky could I see save the far distant lights of Bridgetown and the vessels in the harbor. Then, as again I floated upon the sea, my ears caught the sound of creaking blocks, and, turning quickly, I saw the dark shape of a ship looming near at hand. Great indeed was my joy at finding refuge so close, and so spent was I by my long swim that, without stopping to learn if it were indeed the craft I sought, I pulled my weary body into the fore chains and, cautiously raising my head above the bulwarks, peered along the deck. Then for the first time I realized that the vessel was under sail, for so light was the breeze that she seemed not to move, and only by her canvas being spread and by the helmsman, whose form I could dimly see, did I know that the ship was not at anchor. At the bottom of the foremast a man was huddled, but he was snoring lustily and, no other sailor being in sight, I clambored over the rail and crouched in the shadow, peering about for some spot in which to hide. Near the bow was some object loosely covered with a piece of canvas, and creeping under this I threw myself upon the deck, and, exhausted, fell at once asleep. HOW LONG I SLEPT I know not, for I was awakened by a thunderous sound and sat up, rubbing my eyes and at a loss to know where I was. Again the crash and roar deafened my ears and shook the ship, to be followed by shouts and cries and, somewhat dazed, I lifted the canvas and crawled forth. A blinding flash lit up the blackness of the night as the report of guns thundered out, and by their glare I saw half-naked men swarming upon the decks with pistols and cutlasses in belts, gaudy kerchiefs on their heads, and hairy faces fierce with passion. At the sight I shook with fear, for instantly I knew this was no peaceful merchant ship, but a pirate craft. But ere I could gather my scattered wits together a hand seized me by the shoulder, a cutlass was thrust in my hand and a voice in my ear roared: "Avast lad! Stand not gaping like a booby. See ye not the prize is ours? Up and at 'em an' show your mettle." Before the fellow had ceased speaking or I, befuddled, could grasp the meaning of his words, the ship grated alongside another vessel and, scarce knowing what I did, I hurried after him, cutlass in hand and the next instant was swallowed up in a struggling, cursing, fighting mass of men. Frightened, dazed, my eyes smarting with the smoke of burning powder, my heart pounding with excitement, I struggled with the rest, shouting as lustily as any and striving to keep close at the heels of the only form I knew, he who had placed the cutlass in my grasp. Now we were at the ship's rail; all about us naked steel gleamed in the flash of pistol shots and I saw men fall beneath blows of sword and pike. A ruffian lunged at me, I screamed aloud as the cutlass pierced my shoulder and at the prick of steel my brain went mad, my blood boiled and a lust to kill surged through me. With a savage blow I cut down my enemy ere he could strike again. As he fell I tore the sword from his grasp and slashing, thrusting blindly to right and left, I gained the bulwarks and leaped upon the deck of the other ship. All about were knots of men, fighting like fiends; the planks were slippery with blood; dead and dying men strewed the decks, and close at hand, his back against the mast and with one arm hanging helpless at his side, stood the one I knew. Before him stood a burly seaman with a handspike uplifted ready to strike, and with a yell I sprang at him, thrusting with one cutlass, slashing with the other. I felt the soft impact as my blade met his flesh; I caught sight of the swiftly falling bar, a thousand lights danced before my eyes, I felt myself sinking into utter darkness and knew no more. CHAPTER II. I OPENED MY EYES to find myself lying upon a rude couch in a dimly lit room. Close above my head were huge timbers, the air was stifling and my head throbbed with pain. From near at hand came crashing blows as of someone striving to stave in the wall, and the room seemed to shake and to dance about to the blows. At first I thought it but due to my broken head, and then the events of the night came back to me and I knew full well I was upon a ship at sea, but whether upon the pirate ship or the vessel whereon I had been struck down, I knew not. I strove to rise, but barely did I sit up in my bed than I was seized with terrible nausea and fell back weak and sick. Never had I been at sea before, and I knew nothing of the illness which landsmen suffer, and I was beset with fears that I was sick unto death and would come to my end in this black hole. Moreover, I was greatly terrified, for I was pitched and tossed about upon my pallet; my ears were assailed with groaning, creaking noises, and with each thunderous blow upon the walls my heart ceased to beat, for now I was firmly convinced that the ship which bore me was either wrecked upon a rock or was beset by a storm and would soon founder. But though I trembled with fear at the thought of being drowned like a rat in this way, yet was my illness greater than my fear, and each time I strove to rise and escape, I fell back, unable to move. Then, at last, my stomach emptied itself and I was greatly relieved, and lying back I gave myself up to whatever fate might have in store for me. Thus was I resting, and caring little whether or not the ship lived through the tempest, when a door was opened and a figure entered bearing a smoking lant horn. As I blinked in the light my visitor roared out a boisterous laugh and cried: "Ahoy lad, so Davy Jones is not to have ye yet, eh! Truth, 'tis a hard skull must be hid 'neath that tow-thatch o' yours. The blow would 'a' staved a puncheon, my hearty. An' ye ran him through neatly, lad, there's no denying. But 'twas a close shave for ye, mate, an' a closer one for me. Thank ye kindly lad, an' here's my hand on it." Thus speaking the fellow thrust out a huge, hairy list and wrung my hand, and now I knew why his hearty voice and one arm hanging in a sling that the man was he whom I had followed in the fight and whom I had found facing the fellow with the handspike which had struck me down. But I was too sick and weak to speak, and though I tried to smile yet it must have been but a sorry attempt, for my visitor exclaimed: "Sick, eh? Cheer up lad, 'tis but the illness of the sea an' will pass off soon. A nip o' rum an' a bite o' biscuit will help. An' ye come on deck the salt air will blow the sickness off, I warrant ye." So saying he started towards the door, but the dread of loneliness overcame me, for his presence was comforting indeed, and I made shift to speak, imploring him not to leave and vowing 'twould be impossible for me to swallow anything or to go forth to the deck while the storm raged so furiously. At this the pirate guffawed tremendously. "Storm!" he cried aloud. "There's no storm, lad. True the girl is dancing a bit, but every stitch o' canvas is set and 'tis a lively breeze, an' lucky for us 'tis so. Aye lad, come on deck an' ye'll see a rare sight. Two o' the King's ships a-chasing us and trying to reach close enough to heave a solid shot into our stern. But a stern chase's a long chase, lad, an' we've heels, lad, heels to lead the King's men a merry chase." I WAS VASTLY AMAZED at his bold statement I that there was no storm; but, though relieved in my mind at this, yet the fact that we were being chased by the King's ships filled me with dread. Well I knew that did they gain us there would be short shift for the pirates and that I, found amongst them, would share their fate or, failing this, if I declared myself, I would be taken back to slavery in the Barbados. Indeed so greatly was I terrified at these thoughts that I seized the sleeve of the man and strove to gain my feet. As I did so the boom of a gun roared out above our heads, and the sound and terror drove all illness from me. Forgetful of my throbbing head and weakness, I sprang from the bed and rushed after the pirate who had already gained the door. Close at his heels I clambored up a short ladder and, half-blinded by the sudden glare of sunlight after the dark hole below, I reached the deck and gazed about, clinging to the rail to steady my uncertain legs. On every side stretched a waste of wild, tumbling blue sea flecked with breaking crests of foam; above my head towered the great pyramids of snowy canvas, straining at rope and spar with the force of the roaring trade wind; and rushing alongside was a mass of churning, creamy froth, which stretched in a vast white river to the horizon astern. As my eye followed down the gleaming wake, I saw the King's ships, two pillars of white with wet black hulls gleaming in the sunshine, bits of brass work glimmering like points of fire here and there, and small mountains of foam about their bows. "Gad! but 'tis a line sight," cried a voice at my elbow and, turning, I found a young fellow standing beside me. But though his face was beardless as my own, his countenance was as villainous as any hoary old buccaneer; but fate had cast me among his kind, and I perforce answered civilly enough: "Aye," I said, "a fine sight truly, but 'twill not be so fine an' they catch us. Did the shot ye fired touch them?"' "Nay," replied the pirate with an oath. "But the captain bides his time, and ye watch well an' methinks ye'll see the next shot wing the sojers. Aye, bully, you'll not have long to wait. Mark ye, they're making-ready now. Ah! 'tis Long Jack hisself's aiming the piece. A doubloon to a sixpence he'll hit." Looking in the direction he indicated, I saw a little group of men about the long cannon near the stern, and, bending over it and glancing along its top, was my friend of the wounded arm. Even as I looked the ship swerved suddenly, the sails roared like thunder as they spilt the wind, and with a blinding flash the gun roared forth. Before the smoke had rolled away the ship was back on her course, tearing onward through the waves, and a mighty shout went up from the pirates clustered on the decks. Far astern were the King's two ships, but only one now towered up above the sea in all its beauty; the other was a crippled tangle of spars and rigging, drifting helplessly upon the waves. The pirate's shot had done its work. WE WERE now safe for a time, for the other ship gave up the chase and stood by to aid her companion, and Long Jack, as I now knew him to be called, came stalking forward as he caught sight of me. "An' how like ye that, lad?" he shouted. "Mayhap 'twill teach 'em a lesson. What think ye, mate?" "A fine shot," I answered and then, the excitement having gone from me, I slipped weakly down upon the heaving deck. "Here, ye rat," cried Long Jack to the squint-eyed young pirate who stood near. "Fetch a pannikin o' rum an' a biscuit for the lad, he's clean swooned off." But in this Jack was wrong, for I had not swooned, and ill as I was I all but smiled as I noted the manner the fellow took to his heels at my friend's orders. In a moment he was back, bearing a cup of rum and the biscuit; and a sip of the liquor and a few mouthfuls of the bread revived me greatly. By now, the chase being over and danger passed, a goodly group of men had gathered hard by, gazing at me curiously and passing rude jokes at the ragged and sick figure I cut. '"Aye, 'tis the lad saved Jack t'night past," said one. "Aye, a likely cockerel he be," exclaimed another. "An' how happen the clod be aboard, an' who be he?" asked a third. "Ha' lost yer eyes?" guffawed the first speaker. "Can ye no see 'tis a bimshaw lad—mind ye not we had 'Bados close aboard,—an' he has no wings, 'tis like he swam." That is what they called the native of the Barbados—bimshaw. "Bimshaw or no, he's a brave lad an' welcome to the Adventure," interrupted a burly, bow-legged fellow who pushed his way through the rough lot. "An' ye can stand on those pins o' yourn ye're wanted aft," he announced, addressing me. "The cap'n wants a word wi' ye." Much of my weakness having fled, I shambled to my feet, but I reeled at the motion of the ship, and had it not been for Long Jack I would have lurched head over heels adown the deck. A loud laugh arose from the men at my unsteady gait, but Long Jack turned on them fiercely and cried out: "Belay it, bullies. 'Tis he laughs best laughs last; an' the lad gains his sea legs 'twill serve ye well to keep your tongues stowed in your cheeks belike. 'Twould teach ye manners an' ye had a knock on your skulls like as served the lad here." A murmur of approval went up at Jack's speech. "Aye, Jack's right," exclaimed one. " 'Tis a rum way to greet a stranger; he's one o' us lads—a Brother o' the Main." JACK and the bow-legged pirate who had brought the captain's message, and who I found later was the mate, were now leading me aft, and as I came to the poop ladder and Jack left me, he whispered: "Bear up lad an' keep a taut bowlin' an' a civil tongue. ‘Twill be no ill news a-comin' to ye, I’ll warrant me. Ye've mastheaded your colors, an' that's enough for Jerry Hawkins, lad." The next moment I was clamboring up the stairs, the bow-legged mate supporting me from behind and gaining the upper deck, he led me to the stern and shoved me to the doorway. At this instant the stern of the ship lifted to a great sea and I lurched forward, plunged like a round shot through the door and fell sprawling in the center of a cabin. At the crash of my fall, a man sprang from the table and, ripping out a startled oath, leveled a pistol at my head. My heart ceased to beat for an instant and I thought my end had come, but the next moment the pistol was tossed aside, and the man burst into a roar of laughter and sank upon a chair, holding his sides with merriment. "Gad! but ye frightened me," he exclaimed between his laughs. "Faith, I knew not 'twere boarders or mutineers a-burstin' in. An' 'tis but the bimshaw lad! By the name o' Morgan, an' this be your manner o' visiting, ye should send a boat's crew to note your coming. Did Long Jack fire ye from the gun, or was it old Grommet Legs kicked ye?" The captain's good humor did much to reassure me, and, still dazed, I made shift to struggle to my feet, and, touching my forehead, stood like a dolt not knowing what to say. "An' ha' lost your tongue, lad?" cried the captain, fixing me with his piercing gray eyes. "Mayhap the clout ye gained drove it down your gullet; speak up, lad. How came ye on the Adventure; what drove ye here, an' how be ye called?" At this I related my story, begging forgiveness for having boarded his ship, and in much confusion asking pardon for the rude manner in which I'd entered his cabin. The captain sat silent, tapping the table with his finger tips, biting the ends of his long mustachio and thinking deeply. He was a strange figure, gaunt and yellow skinned, with tawny hair and mustache, keen gray eyes and a monstrous hook nose that reminded me of the beaks of the carrion crows that swarm about the 'Bados. He was richly clad in velvet waistcoat, satin coat and silken small clothes, but his long, scrawny shanks were bare and his feet were thrust into great yellow shoes bearing immense silver buckles. He wore no shirt nor singlet, his hairy chest was naked to the scarlet sash about his middle, and across his breast stretched a huge, livid scar. A heavy cutlass hung at his hip, the butts of two pistols stuck from his sash and the jeweled hilt of a dirk gleamed against the deep blue of his waistcoat. All this I saw, but I noted it little at the time for his eyes pierced me through, and I waited, trembling, for what he might say. Greatly I feared he would set me ashore or cast me adrift, for even the miserable slaves had heard tales of the cruelty of the pirates, and Hawkins' name was famed above all but Morgan for his bloodthirsty devilishness. At last he spoke: "I hear well o' ye, lad," he said, and strangely soft and gentle was his voice, like the purring of a woman's tongue, as he went on. "An' ye'd been found stowed away 'twould 'a' gone ill wi' ye; 'twas lucky we struck a prize an' ye showed your mettle. Long Jack has begged ye and I owe him a boon, an' Jerry Hawkins pays his debts, mind ye, be they good or ill. Moreover, such lads as ye are welcome; and ye choose to bide beneath the Jolly Roger, ye may. 'Tis a rough, hard life an' not for weaklings. There's blood to be shed, lad, an' lives a-plenty to be taken an' women's screams will ring in your ears more times than ye have hairs in your head—but 'tis also a merry life while it lasts, an' loot's a-plenty. You've blood on your hands a'ready, an' ye share in the booty ye helped win, gi'en ye sign articles wi' us. An' ye say nay I'll set ye ashore against one o' the islands, or mayhap overhaul a sloop an' bid them take ye. 'Tis uncommon kind o' me to do so—an' ye hadn't saved Jack, 'twould 'a' been sign or the yardarm. My code's a life for a life; so what's to be, lad?" There was little choice for me to make. To be set ashore meant slavery, and I had risked too much to face that again; but on the other hand to sign on the ship meant that I must murder, pillage and destroy. But that already I had done—I could hang no more for many than for one life—and I owed a grudge 'gainst all the world and my mind was quickly made. Touching my forehead I told the pirate captain I would join. "Bravely said, lad," he exclaimed, and so saying, drew forth a sheet of parchment and a quill. Then, drawing his dirk, he bade me hold forth' my hand, and ere I knew what he was about, he drove the keen point of the blade into my wrist. I WINCED AT THE PAIN, but, clenching my teeth, stifled the cry that rose to my lips, for well I knew that any sign of weak heart would meet with scant sympathy and, truth to tell, my long term under the lash had taught me to suffer much in silence. Dipping the quill in the blood that flowed from my wound, the pirate bade me make my mark amid many others. This accomplished, he seized the quill, and after a moment's hesitation, writ some words against the cross that I had made. "An' ye had no name afore ye have one now," he exclaimed. "Bimshaw ye are, an' Bimshaw ye'll be to all Brethren o' the Main. Come ye now forth, that the lads may drink the health o' their new shipmate." I had stood so long that now my legs had somewhat humored themselves to the motion of the deck, and my illness had well nigh all but left me. So, by clinging to the rails and rigging, I made shift to follow after Captain Hawkins and found him standing at the edge of the poop giving orders to the bow-legged mate. "Grommet Legs," as the man was called, was stout and vastly broad, with a scrubby gray beard and a gray thatch, and with a face so red, so rough, and so filled with cracks and corners, that it 'minded me only of an oven brick. Below the poop stood the crew, as villainous a crowd of cutthroats as ever trod a deck, and as I stumbled down the ladder they set up a lusty howl of welcome. Two men now appeared from below decks with a puncheon of rum, and this being broached and pannikins passed round, the captain raised his on high and cried: "Drink to your new shipmate, men, the lad who saved Long Jack—a brave lad an' I mistake not. Here's to many a prize, rich booty and pretty ladies. Three cheers for Bimshaw, the pirate." CHAPTER III. THUS IT CAME ABOUT that I, a 'Bados slave, through no choice of my own and by a whim of fate, became Bimshaw, the pirate, and signed in my own blood beneath the Jolly Roger. Already had I shed human blood and killed a man, but it troubled me not at all, for the fellow would have gladly run me through, had I not cut him down, and, moreover, he was striving his best to kill another, and a friend of mine, when happily I came upon the scene. Even had he been unarmed and making shift to escape I doubt not I should have killed him with right good will, for long had I been hardened to cruelties and sufferings, and to find myself no longer under the lash made me beside myself, and the pent up wrongs of my past life burst forth to revenge on any who crossed my path. Towards Long Jack I had a great liking, and in truth my life belonged to him, for he it was who besought the captain to take me, telling of the way in which I'd saved his life. But though I was virtually his to order about, he treated me with kindness, and the mate, who was a great crony of Jack, did likewise. Some of the crew, among them the squint-eyed lad, were jealous of my coming, for they saw thereby a lessening of their share of booty, and for many days my life upon the Adventure was but one quarrel after another. 'Twas here the hard life I'd led, the many blows, and my toughened skin stood me in good stead, for I minded not the bruises or blows, and what I lacked in skill I made up for in hard muscle and mad fury when aroused. Soon those who would have beset and baited me nursed broken heads and blackened eyes and sought no more to test my temper. Indeed, they liked me all the better for the mood in which I flung at them and held no malice in their hearts for the blows I dealt, save that same squint-eyed rat of whom I have already spoken. At first methought that the captain would flog me, or worse, for fisticuffing with his men, but soon I knew that he cared not what befell among the men, an' they kept to the waist and fo'c's'le and were ready to board and slay when called upon. Oft he would stand upon the poop, his long bare shanks stretched far apart and his arms crossed on his hairy chest, and watch us as we fought. In faith, at times he even cheered one or the other of the fighters, and laid a doubloon or two upon the outcome with old Grommet Legs. But all this is of little moment, and has nought to do with my life upon the Adventure, save that by help of Jack and the mate I learned the ropes and rigging, was taught how to steer, and passed many an hour making knots and splices or squinting along the guns Jack loved so well, as he told me how to load and aim and fire. SOON AFTER I SIGNED ON I learned we were headed for Hispaniola, for Captain Hawkins, having crippled a King's ship, dared not hunt his prey amongst the English Islands, and word had been passed that the French fleet was hard by, anchored in the harbor of Fort de France. Thus both the French and English were to be left for the present. And as the Dutch Islands were free from our raiding, being favored spots wherein the pirates could lie at peace and refit, there was nothing left but to seek our prey further westward in the waters about Cuba and Hispaniola. All this I heard from Jack as we sped northward over the blue sea and he told me also that perchance we might sight prizes on the way, for, if the captain bore to the west when well past the islands of Antigua and Barbuda, and cruised near to Santa Cruz, we might sight sails bound through the Anagada passage or from Porto Rico to Spain. Twice we sighted land, once the lofty peaks of Dominique and again the Soufriere on Guadeloupe, but we stood well off from land and saw no sails. On the seventh day the men began to murmur and to grumble, for they had naught to do else and never were they content save when murder and robbery were to be done. But their mutterings had not gone far when the lookout sighted a sail and we bore towards it. We overhauled it fast and soon we saw 'twas a small brig bound to the westward, but she showed no colors, though Jack and Grommet Legs swore 'twas a Frenchman from the cut of her canvas. In two hours we had come within gunshot and Jack sent a ball skipping after her while the mate hoisted the Jolly Roger to our masthead. At this the brig-backed her sails and lay to, apparently knowing escape was hopeless—as indeed it was—and thinking mayhap mercy would be shown her if she offered no resistance. All our men were armed, and, rum having been served, though not in quantity enough to befuddle their brains, they stood about with naked cutlasses in hands, impatient to slay and rob. The guns were shotted and ready, but we wished not to waste our ammunition and all saw such easy victory—for the stranger seemed helpless as a lamb before wolves—that to board her at point of pistol was the order. Soon we were close aboard, grappling irons were gotten ready, and we could see the men upon the brig running hither and thither, like chicks frightened by a hawk. A minute more and we would be upon her and then—fire belched from her bulwarks and smoke rolled up in clouds as "her hidden guns were run out and she poured ball after ball into us scarce pistol shot away. THE SURPRISE was complete, for none upon our ship had dreamed that the seeming easy prize was an armed vessel until her guns roared forth. Our spars and rigging came tumbling about our ears, and through the pall of smoke we saw the British ensign flutter courageously to her masthead. Instantly all was confusion aboard the Adventure. There was the splintering of wood and timbers; yards, ropes and sails crashed down from above, and dead and wounded men were strewn about the decks. I had taken up my stand hard by the mainmast, and, a round shot striking close by my head, the blow all but knocked me over. My head whirled and I staggered like a drunken man and as I did so I caught a glimpse of Jack running towards the great gun upon the bow. Even as I saw him his head and shoulders vanished, the air was filled with a shower of red, and the mangled body plunged forward in a pool of blood. I uttered a yell of fury and of horror and, scarce knowing what I did, dashed forwards, leaping over wreckage and dead men as I ran. Stopping not to see if Jack still lived—as indeed I knew full well he could not with half his body gone—1 seized the match that lay beside him where it had dropped from out his hand and gained the gun. 'Twas primed and ready and, as luck would have it, it pointed at the brig, for our crippled rigging had caused us to broach to and we had swung about until our bow was toward her stem. Squinting along the gun I saw the gunners on the brig hurrying to reload their cannon, and, scarce waiting to sight, I touched the spluttering match to the vent. With a roar like thunder the double-shotted charge belched out, the jar knocking me fairly from my feet, but even as I fell I saw through the flame and smoke that my shot had gone true. The big gun upon the brig leaped in the air and the men about it were blown like chaff to right and left and then, with a fearful crash, my head struck against the gun carriage and ships, men, and turmoil were swept from my brain. FAINT, and seeming far away, the sound of voices came to my ears. "A good shot i' truth," said one. "Aye, Jack could not do better,'' answered another. "Be the lad mortal hurt, think ye?'' I opened my eyes to find old Grommet Legs beside me, while hard by stood others of the crew. Lying upon my back upon the deck my eyes saw naught else save the lofty masts with the great shot-torn sails. There was no sound of battle raging, and wonderingly I turned my head and glanced about, my heart going white at what I saw. Ragged, gaping wounds rent the stout bulwarks, great splinters, bits of sails and a litter of ropes covered the decks, and the white planks were dark with great crimson patches of blood, while about the shattered mainmast was a group of wounded, moaning men. "Faith, be ye still living!" exclaimed the mate as my eyes opened. "1 might 'a' knowed no knock upon t' pate could 'a' hurted ye." "Aye, alive and whole," I answered; "a bit of a crack upon my crown as I tumbled down—naught else. But how goes the fight? Where be the brig?" As I spoke I sat upright and turned about, expecting to see the other ship close aboard. Instead I saw her far astern, a mass of tangled sails and spars upon her decks, and all her yards and rigging in a mess. "T’ fight's done an' over," replied Grommet Legs, "a sorry brush for we a' that. Thanks to ye, lad, we're safe away. Ye loosed the piece i' the nick o' time—never seed me a gun aimed truer. Ye blew her guns to bits and killed the gunners, t' shot raked her fore and aft, aye, cut the mainmast as true as wi’ a axe. An' whilst they ran about old Hawkins cut loose and wi' a fluke o' wind got clear away and out o' gunshot afore the sojers gave a mind to fire a gun. But hist, lad; the cap'n comes to see ye." I rose upon my feet at these words and in time to salute the captain, who strode towards me, his clothes torn and blood-spattered, his shanks scratched and barked, and his feet as bare as those of any man's upon the ship. "An' ye keep the course ye've set, ye'll soon be cap'n o' your own ship, Bimshaw," he cried out as he reached me and clapped me on the shoulder. "An' I thought your kind were all o' your breed, I'd sack the 'Bados and loose the slaves to make me pirates. I wot not if chance or skill guided the shot ye loosed, and I care less. Were't not for it we'd all be feeding sharks or dancing at the yardarm now." Having delivered himself of this gracious speech, the captain stood, regarding me thoughtfully for a moment, and then, addressing the men asked: "What say ye, lads, an' Bimshaw steps into Long Jack's shoes? We lost our best gunner — can ye name one more fit to take his place?" A shout of approval went up from the men, only the squint-eyed lad and his crony keeping mute. "Ye mind 'tis the men's choice," said Hawkins, turning to me and adding, in a low tone, as to himself, and shaking his head slowly meanwhile: "Ten days aboard an' a master gunner. By the bones o' Drake, a sweet an' promising lad surely. Where will he be, come ten years from now?" For me, I could scarce realize the honor paid me by Captain Hawkins coming to the deck and addressing a mere lad thus, and scarce more could my dull wits grasp that no longer was I but a raw landlubber, but an officer of the pirate ship Adventure. But joyful as I should be at such fortune falling to my lot, my heart misgave me as with the mate and the crew I ministered to the broken men lying about the mast, many of whom were wounded most fearful with mortal hurts, and whose groans and curses were most terrible to hear. To them also spoke the captain, for though a bloody and cruel lot where others were concerned, or booty was to be gotten, yet Hawkins and his men were ever kind to their fellow corsairs. No surgeon had we on the ship, but Grommet Legs and the carpenter did what they could to bind up the men's wounds, and even made shift to lop off an arm or a leg when 'twas too shattered to save. Full half our crew had fallen at that first storm of shots from the brig, and, before night came, four men had gone to their last port and had been tossed over the side with never a word of service to help their blackened souls. Crippled as we were, our thoughts were more to the saving of our own skins than to the salvation of dead men's souls, or pity for their fate, and we battled and labored like demons, striving to fashion jury masts and rigging, that we might sail on the wind at some speed. For, as it was, we would fall an easy prey to any corvette or ship-o'-war that hove in sight—or, for that matter, any armed merchantman —for our shattered masts and torn sails served but to carry us slowly before the wind, and to ware ship or go about we could not. Short-handed as we were, 'twas most difficult indeed to make repairs, but by midnight we had so far made good our wreckage that the ship was hauled to the northward. 'Twas hopeless now to cruise for prizes, or even to set a course for Hispaniola; first must we seek a friendly spot wherein to relit and secure more bands to man the ship. Thus 'twas we headed up between the Virgins for St. Johns and, running safely through the passage and leaving St. Thomas to larboard, came to Coral Bay. IN THE HARBOR lay many a sail—buccaneers and pirates, some twenty in all—but mostly small; vultures that preyed on little coasting sloops and sacked small villages. Of them all we were the largest ship, and scarce had our anchor dropped than the brethren swarmed aboard to hear our tale, for by our patched and battered look they well knew some fight of moment had been fought. To serve under Hawkins was every man's ambition, and the captain was hard put to select the few he desired, so eagerly did all clamour to gain his favor and join his ship. The men being finally signed on, yards and riggings were sent down, the ship was lightered of her fittings, gear and supplies, and, floating high and light, was towed to the careenage and hove down. Three weeks we spent at St. Johns ere we were ready for the sea, and in that time I saw much of the wild life led by the Brethren' of the Main. I'd thought them rough and villainous on shipboard, but afloat they knew full well that prizes could not be taken nor booty won by men befuddled with rum and, though they drank prodigiously and caroused and skylarked, yet Hawkins and the mate saw to it that none became helpless with liquor. But ashore, in this stronghold of the pirates, no such fears bound them about, and Hawkins and Grommet Legs wotted not how they spent the nights so be it they could turn to and work full lustily in the day—and cut not one anothers' throats nor burned the town. That they might not do this, sentries were posted here and there about the town, and no man was given leave ashore with arms upon him. Our men still had their shares of the booty from our first prize, and, so long as gold and silver jingled in their pockets, they were mad to spend it. From dark 'til dawn the ill-lit town echoed to wild shouts, ribald songs and curses, and drinking places and gambling houses did a right merry business. In faith 'twas wild enough, and drunken men strewed the streets, and quarrels raged on every side and broken noses and cracked pates there were in plenty. But though the men fought and fisticuffed among themselves and cared not for God or devil, yet they looted no shops nor took that which was not paid for. Neither did they abuse or insult the citizens, and this I deemed strange indeed until I learned that such was the pirates' law. Bad as they might be, and I, who for so long was one of them, have little of good to speak of those whose lot I shared, yet ever they paid their debts and hurt neither the persons nor the proprieties of those who gave them shelter. And this was most wise, for they must needs have ports wherein to purchase food and supplies, and safe harbors wherein to careen and relit their ships. So, in exchange for such accommodations, the pirates molested not the people or the craft of friendly ports, and did a pirate break this rule and take aught without paying full value, he was deemed a traitor and a dog. And, happened it that in their cups the corsairs insulted or molested the worthy islanders, the citizens had but to make report of the matter to the captains and short shrift was given the offenders. Many a time have I seen a man swinging from the yardarm for having sought to steal a kiss from the pretty daughter of a planter, and many a drunken wretch has had his tongue cut out for curses or insults hurled at some peaceful worthy citizen of a friendly isle. AT FIRST I had no stomach for such wild debaucheries as the brethren led ashore. Not that I was any saint, nor that I cared a whit for what was good or bad. A red-leg slave has little thought of such matters, and though in early life I had been well taught and reared by Squire Greaves, and on Sundays went to church, yet I saw not that I gained aught by such things or fared better for my Christian belief than did the black idolaters who suffered beside me under the lash of Cranston. But, while I had been hard driven, yet as a slave I had never known the luxury of liquor, and thus my brain reeled and my gizzard revolted at the fiery rum, and I found little pleasure enough in wasting good gold and silver for the sake of rolling under a table or in the gutter, and awaking with splitting head and burning throat for the day's labors. And in this I had a staunch friend in the mate, for old Grommet Legs—hoary old pirate that he was— was a man of uncommon sense and wisdom, and, as he expressed it, "liking me as pitch likes the pot," he was ever with me and told me much of his life. Me alone the men would have scoffed at and bullied 'til I went their way, but they knew the mate for what he was, and none dared do aught to cross him or to say him nay, and so we were left in peace and went where and as we wished and spent our money and our time as we saw fit. He was a strange man, was the mate, and through more than a score of years at pirating—for he told me as a lad he'd served with Morgan—a goodly hoard he had saved and hidden away, to be used, so he told me, to purchase a plantation in the islands whereon he could dwell in peace when too old to rove the seas. At last all was accomplished; our ship was made fit for sea, our supplies were stowed, and, having gathered together our crew, sails were hoisted and, with the Jolly Roger flying bravely from our masthead, we sailed forth from Coral Bay and squared away before the tradewind to the westward to hunt for prey among the Spanish Isles. CHAPTER IV. THERE WERE good pickings to be had about the Spanish Isles, for many plate ships put in at Cuba, Porto Rico, and Hispaniola, on the way eastward from new to old Spain. Thus, leaving the Virgins astern, we passed to northward of St. Thomas and soon sighted the mountains of Porto Rico, beyond. Keeping so far at sea that none upon the shore could see us, we crept along, ever maintaining a lookout for a sail, until, one morn, the cry went up that a ship was sighted and all bustled about preparing for the chase. Soon we saw her from the decks, a speck of white no larger than a sea gull's wing against the blue sea, and Grommet Legs avowed her to be a large ship headed athwart our course. Her captain must have thought to reach the shelter of the Morro ere we could come within reach, for, as we drew closer, he shifted not his helm but held on, hoisting all sail and striving to gain the port. Now she was in plain view and a stately ship she was in truth, a great galleon deep-laden from the mines of Darien and Mexico, with golden cornices and scrolls about her poop and bows, a great cross painted on her foresail, and flags and pennants streaming from her mastheads, while, from her staff, fluttered the red and yellow banner of Castile. Many times the size of the Adventure was the galleon, and her sails towered far upwards against the sky, but she was ill built for speed, and plunged and wallowed through the waves like a clumsy grampus. Like a keen-winged falcon we swept towards her, our guns shotted and primed, our crew armed to the teeth, and grappling hooks ready for boarding. But it was to be a close race, for already were we under the lee of the land, the wind was gusty, and oft the galleon's high sails filled and drove her onward whilst ours flapped but idly against the masts. Each minute we drew closer and each minute both ships approached nearer to the gray walls and parapets of Morro and San Christobal above the harbour entrance to San Juan. For aught we knew, a Spanish frigate might be hidden within the port, and Hawkins took grave risks in running close, but he was ever a brave and reckless man, and with such a rich prize almost within his grasp he dared both the guns of the citadel and the chances of a ship-o'-war coming forth. Upon the galleon all was confusion and fright, for she carried many passengers homeward bound, among them women and children. The poor souls shrieked and cried, while high on the gilded, painted poop a group of black-robed priests prayed for deliverance from the pirates so close at hand. She carried but two small carronades, and, as we drew near, the sailors bravely ran these out and fired on us, but the shots fell short and at the captain's command I trained my long bow gun and fired. THE BALL STRUCK fair and true and with the crash of a falling tree the mainmast came tumbling down, with all its sails and rigging, and in its passage carrying the yards and rigging of the other masts. At this a puff of smoke burst from the forts above the town and shots came plunging all about, but we minded these not and in another moment had grappled with the galleon. Then hell seemed to spit forth its demons, as over the bulwarks swarmed our cutthroat crew. With daggers in teeth and cutlasses and pistols in hand they sprang upon the galleon's decks, cutting, lunging and shooting as they went. Truth to tell the Spaniards made stout resistance, but even a cornered rat will fight, and well they knew that death would be their portion and that a lunge from a cutlass, or a pistol ball, was quicker and less to be dreaded than to walk the plank. No quarter was asked or given, and, heeding not the few of their fellows who fell to the Spaniards' blows, the pirates rushed hither and thither, slitting the throats of the wounded and mad with the lust to kill. Soon the little handful of Spaniards still alive were driven to the stern and on the high poop sought refuge amid the priests and made a last stand to prolong their lives and kill such pirates as they might. Being too close to use the guns I had sprung aboard with the others, and, while I scarce realized it at the time, I was soon cutting down the Spaniards and was as maddened by bloodshed as any of my fellows. That I had no quarrel with them never entered my brain, and that I was but murdering them to rob them of their riches troubled me none at all, and even when our men swarmed up the stairs to the poop to slaughter those gathered there I crowded forward in the mob, crazy to be the first to reach the upper deck. But from their vantage spot they fired down upon us with their pistols and held the narrow stairways with drawn cutlasses, and many a pirate fell ere he had gained the top. Then, finding the cost too heavy for his liking, Hawkins called off his men from the assault, and as the noise of fighting ceased we heard the screams and wails of frightened women from the cabins. At the sound a shout went up from the pirates to batter down the doors, seize the women and drag them forth, and, by torturing them, compel the Spaniards to surrender. But as our men rushed with pikes and axes to do this the Spaniards, from above, poured down upon us molten lead and burning oil and once more we were forced back. Then Hawkins grew furious with rage, and, swearing great oaths, ordered the men to return aboard the Adventure and cast loose and, drawing off to pistol-shot distance, to pour a shower of cannon shot into the cabins and upon the group of men and priests upon the poop. Mad as I was with bloodshed and caring little as I did for the lives of the Spaniards, my stomach turned at thought of the helpless women to be blown to bits by round shots within their cabins, although I knew full well such a fate was far more merciful than were they taken prisoners by the pirates. But I knew that to refuse, aye, even to hesitate, meant death to me or worse, and that even did I not fire the shots others would do the work right gladly, and, as we drew apart, I trained the gun full upon the ornate cabin that rose castle-like at the galleon's stern. But the shot that meant an awful death to the score and more of poor souls upon the doomed ship was never fired. Suddenly the stern of the Spaniard seemed to rise in air, the decks and sides split wide asunder, a sheet of flame shot upward to the masthead, our ship rolled and careened to the deafening explosion and as splinters, bodies and wreckage fell upon our decks the galleon plunged beneath the sea. The Spaniards had blown up their magazine. Even as I write about such matters I shudder at the thought that I took part in them, and oft I feel that truly at the time I must have been distraught and knew not what I did. Perchance the wrongs that I had suffered had dulled my brain and driven pity from my soul, but, be that as it may, I thought little enough of slaughtering those whom chance laid athwart my course, though truth to tell I ever felt my heart rebel at the sufferings of women. This near brought about my undoing, as I shall relate, but I am getting off my course and must put about and log events as they took place. SO MADDENED were the men by the loss of the galleon, that they noted not that the tide had set them close in shore, but now the guns of Morro and Canuelo had our range and shot slashed through our rigging and plunged about our hull. Our plight being perilous, the boats were gotten out—the wind having failed—and by dint of hard pulling the Adventure was towed beyond reach of the guns. But we left not without sending compliments in return and, from our long gun, I aimed shot after shot at the Citadel and saw the balls knocking the masonry about the Dons' ears, though I misdoubt much damage was done, for the Morro was wondrous thick-walled and well nigh impregnable, as Hawkins well knew. Then, as we crawled away from land, we caught the breeze and, heading westward, steered our course for Hispaniola with hopes for better fortune to be met. (To be continued in the December number of THE AMERICAN BOY)

Introduction to Bimshaw, the Pirate 1918


Real Facts Told in the Story of "Bimshaw, the Pirate"

This introductory letter appeared in the November 1918 issue of "The American Boy" magazine along with the first instalment of the serial fiction Bimshaw, the Pirate by A. Hyatt Verrill.
Digitized by Doug Frizzle, September 2009.

THE STORY of Bimshaw, the Pirate, is by no means pure fiction. Nearly all the incidents in the story actually occurred and many of the characters really existed. The sack of Margarita, and other places, was carried out much as described in the tale; the destruction of Nevis is an historical fact and one may still see the ruins of the old town beneath the sea, and Bimshaw, Hawkins, Grommet Legs and others were living:, well known characters in the old buccaneering days.
Mr. Verrill, the author, who is familiar to many of THE AMERICAN BOY readers, has lived and traveled for nearly thirty years in the West Indies and South America and on his travels has gathered much interesting information and many little known facts, some of which he has woven into this story of bygone days when pirates and freebooters roved the Spanish Main and the "Jolly Roger" was the terror of all who sailed the Caribbean Sea.
The house, in which Bimshaw and Brant lived, after settling down and abandoning the trade of pirates, still stands and the author has frequently stopped therein. It is a massive structure of stone on a little hill overlooking a charming bay, and from its gallery one may look far across the blue Caribbean with the hazy outlines of the islands in the distance. The cocoanut trees, under which the Noseless pirate was buried, still wave their nodding heads above the buildings which are surrounded by a thick wall and a moat, as though designed to withstand a siege. Under the buildings are numerous vaults and underground storerooms in which, perchance, old Bimshaw stored some of his booty, while the balustrade to the front steps is formed of ancient musket barrels, — truly a fitting residence for a retired pirate chieftain.
The islands, on which the pirates stored their treasure, have also been visited by Mr. Verrill and on one occasion he camped for several weeks' on the little Key described in the story. Here the remains of ancient pirates' forts, houses and cisterns are still standing, cut from the solid rock, and there are also numerous caves which bear evidences of former occupancy and, no doubt, at one time served as hiding places for pirates’ loot.
The incident of the whalers, and their clever capture of the mutineers, was an actual occurrence, and a full account of the deed was found by Mr. Verrill in an old whalers' log book in a Massachusetts town once famous as a whaling port.
Bimshaw himself was also an historical character, but slightly altered in the story, and many of the descendants of the slaves still live in Barbados. "In the bloody days of Cromwell," says Mr. Verrill, "Scotch and Irish prisoners were taken and were sold to the Barbados planters as slaves for 1500 pounds of sugar apiece. As these people wore kilts and had bare knees they were nicknamed 'red legs' and their lot was most pitiable. Some, like Bimshaw's parents, were bought by planters who secretly were in sympathy with their cause and were well treated; but the majority were branded like cattle and were treated far more cruelly than the negro slaves of the islands."

Sunday, 30 August 2009

ABC of Automobile Driving 1916


A-B-C OF AUTOMOBILE DRIVING
By A. Hyatt Verrill
Copyright, 1916, by Harper & Brothers
Printed in the United States of America
Published April, 1916.
Foreword and Table of Contents digitized by Doug Frizzle 29 Aug. 2009.

CONTENTS
Chap. Page
FOREWORD............ vii
I. SAFETY FIRST........... 1
II. MASTERING THE CAR........ 14
III. FIRST STEPS........... 36
IV. LEARNING TO DRIVE........ 51
V. DRIVING IN TRAFFIC........ 70
VI. PERILS OP THE MOTOR-CAR...... 90
VII. OBEYING THE LAW......... 113
VIII. GETTING OUT OF DIFFICULTIES .... 119

FOREWORD
THE object of this book is twofold: first, to teach beginners how to manage an automobile; and, second, to show those who know how to operate a car the proper way to drive in order to minimize the danger of accidents.
There is a vast difference between "running" a car and driving it properly. The first consists of merely following out a certain series of movements or actions which cause the car to stop, start, slow down, speed up, reverse, or turn to right and left as desired; but to drive—in the full sense of the term— one must combine intelligence, judgment, skill, foresight, and a perfect synchronism of mind, eye, hand, and foot, together with a fair amount of mechanical skill and knowledge. All this may be acquired by practice; but it is far easier to learn with the aid and experience of others, and there is less likelihood of accidents occurring while skill is being acquired.
Of course a book of this scope and size must deal largely with generalities. There are so many types of cars in use, such a variety of clutches, gear-shifts, motors, and other mechanical details, that it is impossible to describe, or even mention, each separately.
This book is not intended as a treatise1 on the mechanics of the automobile, nor as a guide for those who desire to repair, adjust, or overhaul the motor or the car. Mechanical matters and details of motor-car construction are only mentioned or described where they have a direct and important bearing upon driving, or where a knowledge of them is essential when learning to drive.
It is to serve as a primer for automobile-drivers that this book has been prepared, and if it results in a wider and better knowledge of driving, the prevention of accidents, or the saving of a single human life, its purpose will have been accomplished.
A. H. V.

1 The reader who desires to inform himself upon the mechanical theory and practice of the automobile may be referred to Harper's Gasoline Engine Book, by A. Hyatt Verrill. Published by Harper & Brothers. 291 pp. and many illustrations.

In his autobiography, Never a Dull Moment, Verrill says "THE A.B.C. OF AUTOMOBILE DRIVING was later translated into Japanese and used as an instruction book for the Mikado’s Army."

Thursday, 6 August 2009

Subject Guide to Verrill Non-Fiction

Subject Guide to Hyatt Verrill's Non-fiction books
• Automobile Driving
• Seashell
• New England
• Carpentry
• Indians
• Camping
• Motor Boating
• Sail Boating
• West Indies
• Collecting
• History
• Whaling
• Recreational Activities
• Cuba
• Food History
• Gasoline Engines
• Economics
• Aircraft
• Gardening
• Nature Studies
• Radio
• Inquisition (religion)
• Natural History (geology)
• West Indies
• Jamaica
• Knots and rope work
• Treasure hunting
• Minerals metals and gems
• Civilizations of the Americas
• Oceanography
• Panama
• Perfumes and Spices
• Pets
• Porto Rico
• Amateur Radio
• Pirates
• Rivers, nature stdies
• Florida
• Maine
• Virginia
• Smuggling
• Economics of Americas
• Animals
• Birds
• Fish
• Prehistoric Animals
• Insects
• Reptiles
• Peru
• Plants

Wednesday, 5 August 2009

The Shayshan Indians and the Tsingal Mine

From the memoirs of A. Hyatt Verrill
Chapter XXXII [Duplicated 33, not in the book] 1920 - 1922
At Bocos de Toro, I had heard innumerable tales of a tribe of Indians far back in the interior. According to some, the Indians were hostile and never permitted outsiders to enter that area. Some claimed they were cannibals, some said they were savages, some said they wore semi-civilized but all agreed that they lived far in the interior in an unexplored district about the headwaters of the Palenque River close to or over the Costa Rican border. There was no such tribe indicated on the ethnological maps and as they were apparently unknown to ethnologists, I decided then and there to visit them. I knew it was to be a very difficult trip and I realised that it might become hazardous for the rainy season was approaching and if the river rose in flood I might be drowned or marooned indefinitely in the jungle.
I travelled from Almirante in an apology for a coach attached to a banana train. After miles of bumping, jerking travel over the ill-laid track we finally arrived at a tiny, remote station beside the river I planned to ascend. Space forbids a description of the place or the amazing character Señor Toro who was station master, comandante, alcalde, boarding-house keeper end proprietor of a strange combination of general store, trading post and saloon.

(For a detailed account of this expedition see “My Jungle Trails” published by L.C.Page)

Neither he, nor anyone else would believe that I was seeking Indians, and not the fabulous lost mine of Tsingal, although like most Latin Americans he considered all ‘Norte Americanos’ crazy. He could not imagine anyone crazy enough to plunge into the unknown with its reputedly savage Indians with any reason other than to search for Tsingal. Toro, however, did know something of the Indians. The Terribis, he stated, were decent fellows for Indians. Peaceful, if unmolested, although they resented strangers entering their territory. He had traded with them and had visited some of the nearer villages. But— “Beyond them— quien sabe?" Somewhere in the remote impenetrable interior was a village of a cacique, the king of a fierce, hostile tribe. For me to reach this area would be absolutely impossible, he declared and he added, if I should reach it, I would never live to return. Very obviously every man in the settlement felt the same way and it was impossible to induce anyone, to accompany me.
To attempt the trip with only my camp boy was out of the question and I was beginning to fear that I would be forced to abandon my trip when two Colombians arrived on the scene. One was a huge brawny brigandish-looking Negro, the other a wiry mestizo, but they solved my problem. They were utterly fearless, devil-may-care rascals and they were expert river men. As the Negro, who bore the grandiose name of Jesus Mario de Cordoba declared he knew the river “as well as I know my wife”. At which Pepe, the mestizo, chuckled and observed "in that case thou knowest nothing of it." Whether or not Jesus Maria de Cordoba knew the ways of his soñora might be a matter of opinion but he most certainly did know the river, or at least that portion of the stream which was ordinarily navigated. In all my jungle experiences I had never employed more willing, cheerful workers.
It was the most strenuous, difficult journey I had ever experienced. The river was very low and in many places there was not enough water to float the loaded cayuca and we tramped for miles over stony playas where a misstep meant a broken leg or a disabling sprain and the blazing sun heated the rocks until one might literally fry an egg upon them.
In other places long series of rapids forced us to haul the cayuca with tow-lines and there were thorny jungles through which we had to hew a path with a machete in order to portage our goods to the head of the rapids, but the two Colombians never complained.
For days we had seen no trace of human beings; the river and its shores showed no signs of inhabitants, then one day we sighted a thatched house perched high on posts a few hundred feet beyond the river bank. Awaiting us on the shore was a man. I had expected to see an Indian, but the wild-looking, ragged fellow was obviously white. He was shouting to us in Spanish and his face was half-hidden by a gray beard and moustache. "Señor," he cried as soon as we were within talking distance- "It is the will of God that I saw you approaching in the distance. For three months I have not known the taste of tobacco. Can the señor, by the grace of God, have a trifle to spare, that he can sell me? But a thousand pardons caballero permit me to introduce myself. Señor, I am General Valdez Jimenez at your service and if the Señor will do me the honor of accepting such hospitality as I can offer, my house and all it contains are yours."
To say that we wore astonished, is putting it mildly. Here, in the back of beyond, where I thought none but Indios lived, was an educated Spaniard who, despite his rags, had the dignity and manners of a grandee. His story was simple. A former general of the Colombian army, he had become so disgusted with the politics of that republic, that he had taken to the jungle and for thirty years had dwelt with his Indian wife far from the haunts of civilized man. Only once had he left his home in the wilderness, when by a round-about means, the news of Panama’s declaration of independence reached him he buckled on his rusty sword and in his dugout canoe had set out for civilization to offer his services in behalf of the new republic. Long before he had reached Toro's place the bloodless revolution was over and Panama was under the protective arm of Uncle Sam. Finding his services not needed the general, like the King of France, had turned about and gone right home again.
Like all the others, General Jimenez assumed that I was on my way to search for Tsingal. It was difficult to convince him of the truth, but once he fully realized that I was searching for semi-mythical Indians, and not the lost mine, I found that he actually knew the cacique of the bravos, or wild Indians whom he called Shayshans.
When I asked him if he thought I might meet the tribe and the home of the chief, he shrugged— "We Spaniards have a proverb which says the fortune teller of Valencia can say that when it rains, the streets will be wet, but there is no proverb which tells us the fortune teller can say when it will rain. I am no fortune teller. King Polu of the Shayshans, I have seen thrice in thirty years, but whether or not the Americano will see him, quien sabe?” He assured me, however, that the cacique was not hostile, but that he and his people believed that no strangers would enter the territory except to search for Tsingal and as the Indians knew that their fate would be sealed if white men discovered the mine, they took no chances end kept them out.
I was greatly encouraged. There was no longer any doubt of the existence of the tribe and their cacique. My greatest problem would be to convince the king that I was not interested in Tsingal.
The general could not give me much detailed information. King Polu was a strange man, he said, and surrounded with mystery. Then a boy, he had lived for a time in the settlements and had acquired a knowledge of civilized ways, the Spanish language and Christianity. Also, he informed me, one of the chief's legs was shorter then the other causing him to limp. Then, piously crossing himself and speaking in lowered tones he continued, “He is a great magician and deals in un-holy matters. All the Indios know that he flies through the night in the form of a great bird and watches what goes on. I cannot say if this is true, but once I saw a monstrous bird fly past, such a bird as never before had I seen and” again crossing himself—“the thing flew unsteadily because one wing was shorter than the other. I am a Christian and a devout Catholic and believe not in supernatural matters. Perchance Indios, being pagans, may deal with the devil, therefore I always carry an Indian charm, the image of a Shayshan god, for who can say that in their country their gods may not have power to protect one from evil." As he spoke, he produced from his ragged shirt, a greasy scapular and a little golden image. I stared in speechless wonder for it was a beautifully, made figure of Kukulcan the Plumed Serpent of the Mayas.
Nothing would induce him to part with the talisman which he said he had found on a mountainside where it had been exposed by a landslide. However he did help me, and if it had not been for him, I might never have succeeded in my quest. A few miles further up the river, he told me, there was a Terribi Indian house. The Indio who dwelt there was semi-civilized and spoke Spanish. Perhaps, the general thought, Juan, which was the Indio's name, might be able to help me. We found the thatched hut and the Terribi owner proved to be an intelligent and sophisticated, wrinkled old fellow. Then questioned about the Indians further inland he answered willingly. Many of his people had died of influenza brought in by Indians who had visited the settlements to trade. How many were left, he could not say. The cacique dwelt far away, but the Indians of the lower river knew nothing of them. They were gente, civilized people, while the cacique and his people of the mountains were bravos, although of the same tribe.
Terribis was the name given then by the Spaniards, but in their own tongue, they wore Shayshans, “But” he added, "beyond the lands of the cacique were the Doraks, who were truly savages.” when I asked him if I could visit the cacique, he smiled. "Once", he replied, "I went to Bocos de Toro. There I saw boats that moved without sails or paddles. Where I saw great birds made by white men to fly in the air. Can the white men visit the Shayshan king? Who can say? To the white man all things are possible." But he could not, or would not give me any definite information. Turning, he spoke to his wife in their native tongue, and instantly my interest was aroused, for many of the words were identical with those of the Quiche-Maya. Was I on the brink of a most remarkable ethnological discovery? Did the general's image of Kukulcan and the Maya words in the Terribi language mean that the Shayshans were remnants of some long-forgotten Maya colony?
During my conversation with Juan I had seen a young Indian arrive in a dugout canoe. He was talking with Cordova, the latter arose and spoke to me—"Señor” he announced "I have good news, Chico, standing yonder, will go with us. He knows the river better than I and as he is an Indio, we will be safe with him. All he asks is a knife and tobacco," and he added "there will be two more hands to help carry the cargo across the playa. With Chico along, the patron will not be forced to work like a peon." “Bueno”, I told him. “But” I asked “does Chico know the way to the house of the cacique?" "Señor", he whispered, "all the Indios know where the king dwells, but none will tell, unless they are a friend. With Chico we can reach the hone of a comisario, and if you can win friendship all will be well." I was puzzled, but Cordoba explained that an Indian comisario as a sort of sub-chief who ruled the people within his district and acted as a watch-dog and spy and reported the presence of strangers to the cacique.
Although the labor of portaging was made easier by Chico and his cayuca the travelling was indescribably bad. Portages five or six miles in length were frequent. Instead of playas of small water-worn stones there were rocks of every size, some weighing many tons, scattered in wild confusion, while clouds of biting flies and gnats made life miserable, but after a week of this heart-breaking travel we reached the home of the comisario. As he stepped from his home he appeared more like a well-to-do planter than an uncivilized Indian, for he wore white home-spun cotton clothing. His costume, however, proved merely a veneer and a short time later he was more at ease clad only in a breech-cloth, within his house there was not an article or utensil of civilized man aside from an ancient muzzle-loading shot gun.
He did not appear at all surprised at our arrival and Chico, grinning, assured me that the comisario had known of our approach for the past four days. Toluka, as he was called, was friendly and made no objections to my proposed visit to the king. I was rather puzzled at this for I had fully expected him to try to induce me to turn back. But when, three days later, we passed through a deep cañon and saw cleared land stretching from the river to the forest, with a large thatched house upon a low hill, the mystery was solved. Pointing to the house, Chico exclaimed, "Mira, Señor, the home of the cacique— my father's house!"
No wonder Toluka had not protested when the king's son accompanied us. Chico considered it a great joke and when, at his shouts, a canoe manned by a stocky youth crossed the river and reached the shore where we stood Chico spoke rapidly in his native dialect and both fellows roared with laughter.
My mission had been accomplished. I had reached the home of the great king of the Shayshans, and a very pleasant, likeable, intelligent man I found him. I was rather surprised to find him wearing a cotton shirt and trousers but what surprised me far more was his crown of Harpey eagle feathers and macaw plumes, for it was the exact counterpart of the chieftan's headdresses depicted on Mayan sculptures and unlike those of any other known race. If, as I now felt sure, the Shayshans were descendants of the ancient Mayas, it was only natural that they should wear cotton garments. #
# Footnote: After I returned to New York, a study of the Shayshan collection and their vocabulary proved that the tribe was of the Mayan race and as far as known it is the most southerly outpost of the Mayas.

To make a long story short, Polu and I became good friends. He understood Spanish perfectly but insisted he could not speak it well so our conversation was in a trialogue with his son Chico helping out when the cacique was at a loss for a Spanish word. Although, as the old General had said Polu walked with a limp he was not in the least handicapped by his short leg, and I couldn't by any stretch of my imagination picture him flying about the country in the form of a giant bird. It was almost as impossible to believe that he actually was the mysterious, unapproachable chief of whom so many strange tales had been told. He and his family gladly traded weapons, ornaments and artifacts of all kinds, and he assured me that a number of his tribe had been summoned to gather at his house to trade, for it would be a hopeless task for me to attempt to visit even a portion of the Shayshan villages.
So docile and friendly did the Indians appear that I could not imagine them dangerous or hostile, and Polu assured me the tribe always had been peaceful but disliked and distrusted the Spanish and Panamanians and for their own protection had moved farther and farther into the wilderness.
Never was the lost mine of Tsingal mentioned. Yet I was fated to be the first white man to visit the mine in over a century and live to tell of it.
It was all because the king's daughter, a chubby "princess" of seven or eight, gorged herself on rich, oily, piva-palm nuts, seized with a violent tummy ache her screams aroused everyone in the middle of the night and the Indians, believing some evil spirit had taken possession of her, added their wails, lamentations and incantations to the uproar. For a time Polu and his wife would have none of my medicine. But when beating of drums, slaying a fowl and rubbing magic charms on the kiddy's stomach failed to drive off the "devils" the cacique turned to me for aid.
In a very short time the princess’ pain was over, and she was soon sleeping quietly. To the Indians it savoured of magic and they regarded me with awe.
My reward came the next morning. Expressing his gratitude in his mixture of hesitating Spanish and the few Shayshan words I had learned, he pointed to the sombre green mountains with their mysterious, fathomless purple shadows. "Vamonos!" he exclaimed, "Tsingal!"
I scarcely could believe my ears. Polu knew the location of the lost mine and was about to lead me to it as proof of his gratitude for curing his daughter!
It is needless to describe that momentous tramp through the vast forest. I lost all sense of direction and I was soaked to the skin by the ever-dripping moisture when at last Polu halted. Parting a mass of interlacing vines and drooping ferns he pointed to a heap of moss-grown masonry rent apart by the roots of giant trees. Here, buried in the jungle, were the ruins of ages-old buildings erected by civilized white men. A few steps farther on the cacique showed me a stretch of roughly paved roadway and to one side, half-buried beneath the trees, were moss-covered bronze cannon, ornately ringed, bell-muzzled. Carefully scraping away the moss and verdigris I could distinguish letters and figures upon the breeches of the guns. Only here and there was a letter-decipherable, but the word "Toledo” and the date "1515” were quite plain. Beyond any doubt I was gazing at the remains of the Spaniards’ fort that once had guarded the approach to the richest mine in the New World at that time.
I had seen nothing of the Doraks— the fierce, hostile savages of whom I had been warned, and Polu claimed he knew nothing of them. It was not until I was preparing to leave for my down-river journey that I learned the truth. The Doraks and the Shayshans were one and the same! Polu, with a humorous twinkle in his keen eyes, revealed the secret as we were parting. Peaceful, friendly and with a veneer of civilization, the Shayshans transformed themselves into wild, naked and hostile savages when strangers sought to learn the secret of the lost mine.

for more of this story see A. Hyatt Verrill's autobiography. There are links to some of the chapters in the sidebar. The Autobiography, titled Never a Dull Moment may be obtained at Stillwood Books

Wednesday, 29 July 2009

Canadian Postal Code Trivia


Canadian Postal Code Trivia

This morning I was corresponding with an American friend because in a note from USPS my postal code appeared with a 2 where a Z (zed) should have appeared.

So I went to the Canadian Postal Corporations site for some information. There I got a number of maps showing some of the breakdown in postal codes.

Wiki provided a better explaination. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadian_postal_code

Still better was one of the reference pages, an American site!
http://www.columbia.edu/kermit/postal-ca.html.

And from there we go International with
http://www.columbia.edu/kermit/postal.html

My thanks to Canada Post and 'Kermit' for making the morning enjoyable.
Click on the images for detailed viewing. For authoritative Postal Codes always consult the Canada Postal Corporation website - these are examples only.

All together too much information for my first coffee and 5:30am.

Wednesday, 3 June 2009

Motoring Through Porto Rico (Puerto Rico)
BY A. HYATT VERRILL
ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR
From Scribner’s Magazine, February 1916.
PDF facsimile located at http://issuu.com/frizzled/docs/motoring_through_puerto_rico
Digital capture by Doug Frizzle June 2009.

PORTO RICO has frequently been called the "Isle of Enchantment" or the "Treasure Isle," but it would be far more appropriate to call it the "Isle of Good Roads." Although but eighty-five miles in length by thirty-five in breadth, this little island can boast of over eight hundred miles of perfect automobile roads, which encircle the island, connect all the important towns, and form a network over which the island's products and imports are carried by bull carts, mule teams, and auto-trucks.
While the Americans have done much to beautify and improve the island, yet we cannot claim the honor of having first paved the way for Porto Rico's wonderful road system. It is true that we have built many roads and have constructed splendid bridges, but the wonderful Military Road—the best and most important highway of the island—is to-day the same famous road constructed by the Spaniards and will ever remain an enduring monument to the engineering skill and farsightedness of Spanish engineers.
With its splendid roads, its wonderful fertility, its magnificent scenery, and its healthy, pleasant climate, Porto Rico offers an exceptionally attractive field for autoists. It is easily reached by a pleasant four or five day sail on comfortable steamers, and there are no vexatious customs, expensive crating, or other inconveniences attached to transporting an automobile from the United States to our West Indian colony.
The steamships of the New York and Porto Rico line make a specialty of carrying automobiles, and accept them un-crated and ready to run, the only requirement being that the gasolene must be drawn off from the tanks. On some of the ships the machines are run directly into the hold through a side port, while on the smaller ships the machines are hoisted aboard with specially designed slings and placed in the hold beneath the hatches. As machines thus shipped are taken at owner's risk, it is well to insure expensive cars, and, to prevent rust or corrosion by salt air, covers should be placed over the brass or nickel work.
On arrival at Porto Rico an insular license is required before the car is used. This is obtained at the Intendencia Building on the Plaza Principal at San Juan. The fee is five dollars a year for any private machine, but a special transient license may be procured for two dollars per month. The automobile laws are very lenient in Porto Rico, the speed being unlimited in outlying districts, and at each town or village a sign is placed beside the road directing drivers to reduce speed to sixteen kilometres per hour. When leaving a machine in a town a boy or some other person should be left in charge, as there is an ordinance forbidding drivers to leave machines unattended on the streets.
Garages, repair-shops, accessory dealers, and automobile agencies are numerous throughout the island, and charges are very reasonable, and the work is as good as in New York. Gasolene costs from twenty-four to fifty cents per gallon, depending upon the locality, most of the coast towns charging the lower rate, while the distant interior towns charge as high as sixty cents. For this reason the autoist in Porto Rico should always carry an extra tank or tin of gasolene when starting on an extended trip, for the climate and the mountain grades eat up fuel very rapidly and a car will seldom give more than two thirds as much mileage to the gallon as in the United States. A large portion of the traffic and freighting in Porto Rico is carried on by automobile, and a constant stream of pleasure-cars, trucks, and public buses is met wherever one travels. Several regular lines of automobiles are operated on the island and the cars make daily trips over scheduled runs, while others may be rented by the day or hour. Even about San Juan itself the autoist can find much of interest, and the various historical spots, quaint and picturesque parts of the town, and the well-stocked shops and stores may all be reached with less exertion and in greater comfort in an automobile than by any other means.
Every one drives with the top up in Porto Rico, for the sun beats down with true tropical fervor and showers are so frequent and so sudden that some protection is always necessary. The autoist, accustomed to driving his car through our broad American streets and around our ample corners will at first find it quite a task to turn and twist through the busy traffic of Porto Rico's capital, especially as little dependence can be placed upon the gestures and signals of the denim-clad traffic officers. These police mean well, and no doubt in their own minds they know full well what their motions are intended to convey, but they do not speak English, and if slightly excited or hurried they are as likely to use Spanish as English signals, or, worse yet, a mixture of both. If one sees an officer frantically grasping at the air in the direction of an approaching machine it signifies that the way is clear, for the odd motion is the Spanish equivalent for beckoning. On the other hand, a gentle wiggling of the finger-tips does not of necessity mean to proceed, for to the Spanish-American this gesture means to wait. Moreover, in rounding corners do not hug the right-hand curb too closely or swing too far to the opposite side if turning to the left. If you follow out this accustomed procedure you may run down the innocent guardian of the peace, for Porto Rican police have a peculiar habit of stepping to one side or the other of the street as a vehicle turns, instead of maintaining post in the centre of things.
In Porto Rico one may leave a machine on either side of the street or road regardless of the direction in which it is headed, for the law merely requires drivers to place their cars "as near the edge of the highway as possible." In certain sections of the streets in San Juan one-way traffic rules are maintained, and the newcomer should take care not to travel west on a street devoted to easterly traffic, or vice versa. Unfortunately, these streets are not posted at every corner, and the stranger is quite apt to turn into such a thoroughfare in perfect innocence, only to be held up and ordered back by a policeman, and, as turning about in these narrow streets is impossible, the unfortunate driver may be compelled to reverse through several hundred yards of closely packed vehicles or even up some steep and narrow hill— for San Juan's streets are mostly hills, and steep hills at that.
The police, as a rule, however, are very courteous and obliging, and realize that strangers cannot be expected to know all the ins and outs of the local vehicle laws, and arrests for petty or unintentional violations of the law seldom or never occur.
Outside of the town and the urban speed-limit lines there is no trouble, for each traveller uses his or her own best judgment, and the common rules of the road hold good. The native Porto Rican chauffeurs are reckless, daredevil drivers, and should be given a wide berth, especially on curves and near bridges, while the lumbering ox carts and huge autotrucks take plenty of time to get out of the way and cannot be frightened, bullied, or coaxed into prompt response to signal or horn.
The most important and best-known road in Porto Rico is the famous Military Road, constructed by the Spaniards long before the American occupation, and still the best and most popular overland route from San Juan on the north to Ponce on the southeastern coast.
This splendid macadam highway leads across the very centre or backbone of the island and passes through many interesting interior towns, through rich agricultural districts, and through magnificent mountain scenery. Leaving San Juan, a splendid asphalt boulevard leads past the railway station, the Y. M. C. A. building, and the theatre, passing under the frowning walls of old Fort San Cristobal and to the little outlying suburb of Puerta Tierra. At this point the true Military Road commences, and a mile or so beyond crosses the splendid San Antonio bridge with the quaint fort of San Geronimo to the left and the half-hidden remains of the old walls and moats to the right. Crossing the bridge the island of San Juan is left behind and the mainland of Porto Rico is reached at the pretty residential suburb of Santurce. This comparatively new section is very attractive, with its numerous handsome concrete houses, its fine hotels, and its palm-embowered gardens, while the never-ending procession of people, vehicles, and animals upon the road is most interesting. From all the interior districts the traffic to San Juan passes over this road, for it is the sole and only highway leading from the capital. Great, lumbering bull carts, pannier-laden horses, six-mule army wagons, huge autotrucks, and two-wheeled, horse-drawn drays are passed by scores, while barefooted natives laden with trays and baskets of vegetables, fruits, eggs, live fowl, and every imaginable native product give a touch of character and local color to the throngs. Queerest of all, however, are the funny little stores on wheels, some made in the forms of miniature houses— chimneys and all— others fashioned in the shape of steamships, others like little trolley-cars, but each and every one filled with bottles of soft drinks, odd cakes, loaves of bread, or other simple commodities, and each of the owners literally doing a "pushing business."
Beyond Santurce the road curves through broad meadows covered with cocoanut groves, over the beautiful Martin Pena bridge, through the outlying barrio of Hato Rey, and at last enters the little town of Rio Piedras.
This town is far more Spanish-American in appearance than San Juan, but possesses all the modern improvements and has many new and handsome buildings, while the Capuchin Monastery, the Municipal Hospital, the Insular Normal School, and the University of Porto Rico are all situated here, as well as the reservoir from which San Juan derives its water-supply and the repair-shops of the Caguas Railway and the San Juan trolley-line. The old summer palace of the Spanish governors-general of Porto Rico was formerly at Rio Piedras, but the buildings have been demolished and the grounds converted into a public park and botanical garden. The Military Road continues straight through the town and extends across an almost level plain, while to south and east the foot-hills rise in broken spurs and cone-shaped eminences, gradually rising higher and more rugged to the towering mountains of the Luquilla range, with their cloud-wreathed summits purple and hazy in the distance. Soon the road commences to ascend the hills, winding by graceful curves and easy grades, the roadbed always smooth, always well kept, and in many places with an asphalt surface, and gradually mounting higher and higher, but so gradually that one scarcely realizes there is any grade whatever.
Here and there along the roadside great feathery clumps of bamboo wave and rustle in the breeze, while towering royal palms shade the highway, and through the foliage one glimpses deep valleys and steep hillsides, all clothed in rich green verdure, with picturesque thatched huts nestling half-hidden among the banner-like leaves of plantains and bananas.
Each moment new and more lovely scenery opens to the view, until, swinging about a curve and crossing an ancient Spanish bridge, the half-way house of La Muda is reached, and a little later the last rise is topped and one looks down upon the magnificent Caguas valley, with the little red-roofed town nestling in the midst of broad cane and tobacco fields between the silver ribbons of the Turabo and Caguas Rivers.
Caguas is a thriving town of some twenty-seven thousand inhabitants, situated about twenty-five miles from San Juan, and in the centre of a rich tobacco district. On every hand stretch the broad tobacco-fields, the great thatched drying-sheds standing in their midst, while during growing time the ground appears as if covered with snow, owing to the immense areas of cheese-cloth stretched above the fields. There are a number of large tobacco warehouses and packing-houses at Caguas, and a visit to one of these is well worth while.
Caguas has well-kept streets and shops, two hotels, several restaurants, a pretty plaza, and a picturesque church. One of the finest of the insular schools is in this town, and in addition there are fourteen graded and eleven rural schools, a good library, a hospital, a splendid water system, and electric lights in all the houses and streets. A telephone-line connects the town with the rest of the island, a railway runs to Rio Piedras, and in every way the people are provided with modern appliances, conveniences, and improvements.
Beyond Caguas the road crosses a fairly level valley, the roadside bordered by glorious, scarlet-flowered Poinciana-trees, forming an arch of living fire and casting welcome shade across the highway. Beyond the confines of the circular valley the road again ascends the further foothills, and presently we find ourselves winding round and round the mountainside in sweeping serpentine curves. In a few minutes we rise far above the valley and look down upon silvery rivers, broad green fields, verdure-filled valleys, and palm-clothed hillsides far beneath us. Ever upward climbs the road, crossing deep barrancas on ancient Spanish bridges, swinging around the very brinks of precipices, turning in sharp, hairpin curves around jutting mountain spurs and beetling cliffs— a marvel of engineering skill and as smooth, well-kept, and hard-surfaced as a city boulevard.
While the grade is at no place sharp, yet the ascent of the mountain is accomplished in fifteen miles, and at the crest of the ridge the road has risen two thousand feet above the valley, and one's ears ring and hum with the change of atmospheric pressure.
As the mountain top is approached beautiful tree-ferns appear beside the roadway, while tropic vegetation of innumerable forms— air-plants, orchids, trailing ferns, and gorgeous flowers— greets the traveller at every turn. Once over the summit of the divide the road leads rapidly downward to a smiling green valley, with which lies the little town of Cavey, with the immense military barracks prominent upon a low hilltop in the foreground.
Cavey, founded in 1774, is situated at an elevation of about one thousand three hundred feet above the sea. The town is cool, healthy, and clean, and is devoted to coffee and tobacco growing, and although picturesque and quaint is of little interest to tourists. Leaving behind the rough and uneven streets of this mountain town, the traveller soon commences the ascent of a second range of mountains even loftier than the one over which he has just passed,
At every turn one marvels at the stupendous labor which must have been expended in constructing the road, while the glorious panorama is beyond all description.
Creeping around precipitous mountainsides, skirting cliffs and precipices, stretching across narrow "hogback" ridges, but ever climbing upward, the road stretches, until at an altitude of nearly three thousand feet one looks down upon Aibonito sleeping on a green and rolling plain girt round with lofty mountain peaks. Aibonito, at an altitude of some two thousand feet above the sea, is an important coffee and tobacco town, with hospitals, hotels, many schools, and well-kept streets and stores.
Beyond the town the road again climbs upward through dense groves of coffee, riotous tropical vegetation, and deep, wooded ravines, until at Aibonito Pass, three thousand three hundred feet above the sea, we look upon a scene of marvellous beauty, vast mountain heights, and magnificent distances. On every hand stretch rich green valleys, towering peaks, and verdure-covered hills. In the dim and shadowy depths of cool ravines we catch glimpses of sparkling mountain streams; tiny wattled huts peep from bowers of bananas and palms, or perch on the very brinks of dizzy precipices, and, turning southward, we see the distant Caribbean Sea, a line of shimmering blue beyond the far-off hazy foot-hills. From this lofty mountain pass the road dips sharply down in marvellous, sinuous curves, sharp turns, and spiral twists, and within six miles Coamo is reached, a bare five hundred feet above sea-level. Coamo, founded in 1606, has a hospital, many schools, a splendid water system, a pretty plaza, neat houses, and well-kept streets, and produces coffee, sugar, fruits, and vegetables. The traveller in Porto Rico will soon notice that all these smaller interior towns look much alike. There are always the same straight, well-kept main streets, the narrower, rougher cross streets, the bright-tinted stucco and concrete houses, the same red-tiled roofs, and invariably a central open square or plaza with the attendant church. But in one feature each and every town is distinct, for no two of the churches are alike, and any town on the island may be readily identified by its church.
A few miles from Coamo are the famed Coamo Springs, the waters of which are noted for their wonderful medicinal properties. Here there are a large and splendidly equipped hotel, a sanitarium, and baths which are the Mecca of all Porto Ricans afflicted with rheumatic and other ailments.
The descent from Aibonito Pass to the lowlands of the southern slopes is marked by great changes in the vegetation, and as one travels onward toward Ponce moss, ferns, and other tropical growths disappear, and the tourist passes through a scene which reminds one of a New England road through the Berkshires or the Litchfield Hills. Thick, leafy trees have replaced the tree-ferns, palms and bamboo have disappeared, broad-spreading shade-trees border the roadside, and on every hand stretch meadows, plains, and hillsides covered with a dense growth of waving green grass wherein sleek cattle and quiet ponies graze in peace. Soon we pass through the little town of Juana Diaz, and a little later we cross the level coastal plain beneath long arches of glorious Poinciana-trees and speed over the perfect macadam road which leads to the outlying streets of Ponce.
Compared with San Juan there is little of interest in Ponce, but it is so distinctive in character and so different from the capital that a day or so may be profitably spent in the town. There are several good hotels in Ponce, the best and most expensive being the Frances, while the Melia and Inglaterra are clean, comfortable, and entirely satisfactory if one cares for Spanish cooking and native dishes.
Ponce is so utterly distinct in appearance from San Juan that it might well be in a different country. San Juan is built on a hillside and there is scarcely a level street in the town, while three, four, or even six story buildings give it a modern appearance. Ponce, on the other hand, is level as a floor and not a hilly street can be seen, while buildings of more than two stories in height are rare. In character Ponce is decidedly more Spanish-American and in many ways is more attractive. The streets are fairly wide and are mainly smooth and well kept, the town is regularly laid out, and the buildings, of Spanish architecture and tinted in bright colors, give the town a tropical, foreign atmosphere that is quite lacking in more Americanized San Juan. The climate, however, is far hotter than in the capital, and little relief from the heat is afforded by the nights, although the sea-breezes prevail throughout the greater portion of the year. The large, shaded plaza forms the central feature of the city, with an ornamental kiosk in which the band plays in the evening, an imposing cathedral, and a fearfully and wonderfully designed and marvellously painted fire-engine house.
This odd structure is perhaps the most striking feature of Ponce. Situated at one corner of the plaza and painted in brilliant red, blue, black, and white, it attracts attention immediately. The fire department consists of hand-engines and hose-carts, and the "bomberos," or firemen, stand about in the palpitating heat clothed in red-flannel shirts, enormous helmets, and jack-boots, expectantly waiting for a fire. As there are sometimes as many as five fires a year, patience must be the prime requisite in securing an appointment to the Ponce fire brigade.
Although Ponce is both industrially and commercially one of the foremost cities on the island and is the shipping port for the principal coffee and sugar districts, the casual visitor sees little of its commerce or business. This is due to the fact that the "playa," or shore, and the docks, or "muelle," are at some two miles from the centre of the town and are reached by trolley or a broad macadam highroad.
Ponce has many magnificent private residences, several hospitals and asylums, numerous clubs, telephone and electric-light systems, an ice factory, cigar and cigarette factories, a hippodrome and baseball ground, and a splendid theatre known as "La Perla." The people are pleasant, sociable, and hospitable, and are passionately fond of flowers. There is scarce a patio, balcony, or garden that is not gorgeous with blooming shrubs and vines, tropical flowers and palms. The climate seems very favorable to vegetation, and the visitor is filled with wonder at seeing the telegraph and telephone wires everywhere covered with a luxuriant growth of orchid-like air-plants which grow in bunches and give the wires the appearance of being decorated with innumerable birds' nests.
From Ponce the autoist may select numerous routes to other towns. To the west a road leads through Penuelas, Yauco, Sabana Grande, San German, and other towns to Mayaguez. To the north a splendid highway carries the tourist through Adjunlas and Utuado to Arecibo, while easterly one may travel through the shore towns to Guayama and Humacao and from either of these towns turn inland to Cayey or Caguas. The Mayaguez road is not of the best, and the country through which it passes is rather flat, uninteresting, and monotonous, and if one is limited for time the trip may well be omitted. The Arecibo road is very beautiful and, if possible, the trip should be taken, for it carries one through some of the few remaining patches of virgin forest on the island.
Some twelve miles from Ponce the road passes through Adjuntas, a little mountain town at an elevation of one thousand seven hundred feet above the sea and in the midst of a great coffee district. Adjuntas is located in a charming valley surrounded by lofty mountains some three thousand feet in height, and from some of these the traveller may gaze north upon the Atlantic, and by turning about may look upon the Caribbean to the south, while to east and west and stretching from coast to coast is the whole vast panorama of the island spread like a map beneath one's feet.
From Adjuntas the road climbs steadily upward over even loftier heights to Utuado, a thriving town of thirty thousand inhabitants, lighted by electricity, with a splendid water-supply, hospitals, a library, and fifty-one public schools. In this district the mountain scenery is very grand and rugged, and many naked rocky peaks may be seen projecting far above the masses of verdure, while dashing mountain streams foam in roaring cataracts amid the luxurious tropical vegetation of shadowy ravines.
Between Utuado and Arecibo the scenery is also beautiful, while Arecibo itself is a very old and interesting town and well worth a visit. It was founded in 1537, has a population of about forty-three thousand, and is probably the most typically Spanish-American town on the island. In former years the town was surrounded by extensive swamps which are now being drained and converted into excellent sugar plantations.
From Arecibo the autoist may turn westward to Aguadilla, or eastward and to San Juan through Manati, Vega Baja, and Bayamon. The latter trip traverses a rich tobacco and fruit growing district, but the road is flat and the scenery monotonous and uninteresting. The Aguadilla road is also of little interest, although Aguadilla itself is so intimately associated with Columbus and the early history of Porto Rico that many people find it very interesting. It was here that the great discoverer first landed on the island and from a spring which gushed forth filled his water-casks. The spring, which is known as the "Ojo de Agua," is now covered by an ornate commemorative fountain. Aguadilla is a town of some twenty-two thousand inhabitants and has a delightful climate with a refreshing ocean breeze during the day and cool nights. The surrounding country is very densely populated, and is cultivated in coffee, cane, tobacco, oranges, pineapples, and other fruits.
Another very interesting trip from Ponce is the Guayama-Humacao road, which passes along the southern coast and through Caguas to San Juan. For many miles after leaving Ponce this road runs through a flat plain which is of a very different character from any other part of the island. In many places there are extensive salt deserts on which thorny scrub and giant cacti grow in profusion, thus giving the land the appearance of a bit of Arizona or New Mexico rather than of the West Indies. Farther on these sterile lands give way to enormous cane-fields that stretch for miles from the level road to the distant mountains, while here and there huge "centrals," or sugar-mills, rear their great chimneys far above the waving cane. For nearly fifty miles the road lies level and smooth as a floor, following close along the shore, the white beaches shaded by rows of feathery cocoa-palms, with the turquoise sea beyond and the Berberia and Muertos Islands in the distance.
In many places one sees the great irrigation system that was designed to transform these sun-scorched, dry southern lands into fertile cane plantations, and many interesting little towns and villages are passed. Salinas with its neat and attractive school and shaded streets, Santa Isabel with its beautiful, palm-encircled plaza, and thriving, many-tinted Guayama with its great domed church. Here the road branches and the traveller may strike inland over a splendid highway to Cayey or may continue onward to Humacao and hence to Caguas. The scenery between Guayama and Cayey is very attractive, with glimpses of sea, valley, and mountain, wonderful shadowy gorges and dizzy heights, but the Humacao route has more variety and, in the mind of the writer, is the better road to follow, although several good-sized rivers must be forded.
Leaving Guayama the road passes through Patillas and Arroyo, the latter of interest as having been the first place to employ the telegraph in Porto Rico, a line having been installed by Samuel F. B Morse while on a visit to members of his family who were interested in a neighboring sugar estate. From Patillas the road gradually ascends the side of a cliff, and for some miles the tourist travels along the brink of a precipice with the white, palm-bordered beach beneath him and the wonderfully blue sea stretching away to the dim and wraith-like form of Culebra Island to the southeast. Rounding the last cliff the road descends to a broad and fertile valley and soon afterward passes through the town of Maunabo. Beyond this little town the highway climbs up the mountains, winding around and about and affording most charming vistas of deep valleys, lofty peaks, and tumbling mountain streams. Beyond the crest of the ridge the road sweeps in great serpentine turns down to the lovely valley of Yabucoa. Here it is necessary to make a detour through the grounds of the "Central Mercedes" and across the private bridge in order to avoid fording the river, which is usually impassable for autos. Beyond Yabucoa the road is splendid to Humacao save for several small rivers which must be forded, but only one of these— in the very outskirts of Humacao— is apt to be at all troublesome.
Humacao is a beautifully situated and rather attractive town and has a very good hotel— the Hotel Maxim— where one may stop without discomfort. From Humacao the road passes through some very attractive mountain scenery to Juncos, where the river is crossed on a remarkable bridge consisting of two parallel planks supported on short posts, and hence to Gurabo over the splendid iron bridge across the Rio Grande, with its lush meadows and bamboo groves, and hence to Caguas.
There are so many splendid roads and such a wealth of beautiful scenery in Porto Rico that it is difficult to say which route is the most attractive. If you can make but a single trip, by all means take the San Juan-Ponce road across the island and return via Guayama, but for a short one-day trip none is more desirable than the so-called Comerio road. Leaving San Juan by the ferry, which sails hourly from the slip near the new Federal Building, we cross the bay and land at Cantano, a typical West Indian hamlet surrounded by extensive mangrove swamps. From Cantano the road crosses the swamps on a high and broad causeway and leads to the town of Bayamon. This town is noteworthy as having been founded in 1509 by Ponce de Leon, and, moreover, is close to the site of the first settlement in Porto Rico—the "Villa de Caparra," which later became the capital of the island and was known as the "City of Puerto Rico." In 1521 the site was abandoned and the settlers moved across the bay and founded the present city of San Juan. The country surrounding Bayamon is mainly devoted to fruit culture and is being rapidly developed by American planters who ship large quantities of grapefruit, oranges, and pineapples. Bayamon itself is prosperous and progressive, with an ice-plant, brick and match factories, electric lights, and an immense cigar factory which employs over one thousand people and turns out millions of cigars monthly.
At Bayamon the road forks, the right-hand road leading along the coast to Arecibo, while the left-hand branch, or Comerio road, turns inland and for several miles rises and falls over low, rolling hills until the Rio Plata bridge is crossed. Here the highway commences its upward climb over the mountains, following the valley, and with the gleaming Rio Plata tumbling seaward in its rock bed between the emerald mountainsides. Gradually the road mounts higher and higher above the river until the stream seems but a mere silver thread deep within its gorge. Presently one comes within sight of the great dam of the Porto Rico Lighting and Power Company, which furnishes the power for the trolley-lines and electric lights in many of the towns and cities of the island.
Over the lofty dam an immense volume of water roars to the rocky bed far below, while above the vast artificial lake lies placid and calm between the towering mountains that surround it on every side.
A few miles above this beautiful lake Comerio is reached— a mountain town of some twelve thousand inhabitants formerly known as "Sabana del Palma," or Palm Meadow, owing to the numerous groves of royal palms on the neighboring hillsides. From Comerio the road winds about the precipitous mountainsides, rounding jutting promontories, clinging like a twining vine to the cliffs and by wonderful curves and marvellous feats of engineering surmounting the mountains, while at every turn the traveller gazes into vast gorges on one side and looks upward to cloud-topped peaks on the other.
When at last the devious windings, hairpin turns, and innumerable loops come to an end and the traveller emerges upon the wind-swept mountain-top he feels well repaid for the trip by the glorious panorama stretching away in every direction—a view unequalled in any other portion of the island: a marvellous array of rugged, towering peaks, deep valleys, broad plateaus, and terrific gorges of a thousand tints of green; golden in the sunshine, indigo beneath the shadows of passing clouds, and opalescent, purple, mauve, and lavender in the distance. From this highest point the road swings in broad curves through groves of coffee, tangled jungles of tropical plants, and immense groves of royal palms to Barranquitas, known as the coolest town on the island and the centre of the coffee district. Here in the evening overcoats and blankets are in order and even at midday the air is deliriously cool. From Barranquitas the road descends somewhat, passes through deep shady groves of coffee and tangled tropical vegetation, and emerges on the main military road a mile or two above Aibonito.
To describe in detail every automobile road on the island or even to attempt to convey an adequate idea of the charm and novelty of touring Porto Rico by auto is impossible. It is not alone the natural scenery that attracts nor the splendid roads nor even the balmy air and tropic vegetation, but in addition a wonderfully fascinating and indefinable sensation of being in some remote corner of the world or on another planet. It is hard indeed to realize that one is still on American soil and scarcely farther from New York than Des Moines, Ia. Moreover, there is a charm in the incongruity one meets at every turn. We speed in high-powered automobiles over roads and bridges built by Spanish slaves three hundred years ago, the grim old battle-scarred walls of Christobal and Morro echo to the clang of trolley-cars and shriek of locomotive-whistle, thundering auto-trucks crowd ancient, lumbering bull-carts to one side, while barefooted peons till their land with crooked sticks across the road from huge steam-ploughs. On every hand the old rubs elbows with the new, there is no intermediate state, there has been no transition period. The space of four centuries has been bridged almost in a night. Between the ancient and the modern, Porto Rico is being ground as between two millstones, to emerge— let us hope— with a new civilization, a new prosperity, and the brilliant future which she so justly deserves.

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