Showing posts with label Fish. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fish. Show all posts

Wednesday, 2 November 2011

Queer Fish

The story below predates the book, Strange Fish and Their Stories, which Verrill wrote in 1938.

Queer Fish

A. Hyatt Verrill

Popular Science, Nov 1900; researched by Alan Schenker, digitized by Doug Frizzle, Nov. 2011.

Probably no other division of the animal kingdom numbers among its members so many queer, strange and grotesque forms as the fish. One of the best known of peculiar fishes is the common "Sculpin," whose huge, repulsive mouth, goggle eyes and wing-like fins are familiar to nearly everyone who has fished in fairly deep water along the Atlantic coast. A cousin of the sculpin but much rarer is the "Sea Raven." This fish is also known as "deep-water sculpin," "rock toad-fish," "puffing grubby," etc., and is readily distinguished from the common sculpin or "grubby," by its brilliant red or orange color, greatly elongated fins, warty body and especially by its peculiar habit of inhaling air until swollen to an enormous size. These two fishes are members of the Gurnard family, and although treated with contempt and considered unfit to eat in this country, are held in great esteem abroad as food fish.

Another common but exceedingly peculiar fish is the "Puffer," "Blow-fish," or "Swell-fish." This creature is dark olive or greenish above and yellow or orange below, with large bulging eyes and a peculiarly shaped mouth filled with protruding and queerly shaped teeth. The skin is slightly warty and is covered with small granular spines. When captured or in danger this odd fellow swells to an enormous size, until he looks for all the world like a rough, yellow balloon, and if placed in the water while in this condition will float belly upward in a most helpless manner. The "Porcupine-fish," or "Sea-hedgehog," found in our southern waters is a relative of the "Puffer" and differs from him only in possessing long and sharp spines in place of tubercles.

The "Trunk fish" and "Cow fish" are also relations of the puffer, and are familiar to most visitors to Florida and the Bahamas. These fishes are named from their peculiar shape; the "trunk fish" being somewhat triangular in shape, with a hard bony armor, while the "cow fish" has in addition two sharp spines or horns projecting from his forehead. We are all familiar with the "Toad-fish," the "Goose-fish," and the "Angler," those huge, grotesque creatures with immense mouths and flat bodies, who lie in wait for unsuspecting fish, which, attracted by the waving filament attached to the head, fall victims to the capacious maw of their enemy. Although the above appear grotesque to our eyes, yet the strange forms are no doubt of great value to the owners, in many cases serving to protect them when lying at rest among the weed-covered rocks on the ocean's bed.

The most remarkable examples of protective form and coloration among fish, however, are found in certain species inhabiting the "Sargassum" or "Gulfstream weed," floating on the surface in the mid Atlantic. These queer fish are so nearly the color and form of the weeds among which they dwell, that they are with difficulty distinguished from their surroundings. Even their fins have taken on a form especially adapted to their needs and closely resemble hands, and in fact the owners use them as such, crawling about among the tangled growth, more like a terrestrial animal than a fish.

Peculiar form is not the only queer thing found in the fish-world, however, as many species, of a form not at all peculiar, possess habits or coloration so strange as to merit a place among the queerest of queer fish. Among those of odd habits may be mentioned the "File-fish," "Unicorn-fish," etc., creatures that although not particularly striking in form,—aside from the long and sharp spine on the head,—have the remarkable habit of standing on their nose while at rest, or feeding and swimming on their side when in motion. Their shape and teeth are such that any other position would be next to impossible, and as a result their color,—usually blue or olive,—is arranged in longitudinal stripes which serve to still further protect them while resting upright among the rocks and seaweed. These fish seem to be more than necessarily protected from injury, for, in addition, the sharp spines on the head,—and sometimes the throat as well,—are so constructed that when erected they become locked in place and cannot be depressed until the owner so desires. This peculiar arrangement is cleverly managed by the aid of a supplementary spine, or trigger, from which fact they are sometimes known as "Trigger fish." They are common in all intertropical seas and several species are found off the coast of New England. One of the largest and most striking examples of this class is the "Old wife" or "Turbot of Bermuda and the West Indies."

Still other fish, which are neither grotesque in shape, coloration or habits, are so brilliantly or beautifully colored or formed that they may well be classed as "queer." Such are the "angel fish" and "parrot fishes." The first are most gracefully shaped creatures, which, with their long trailing fins and delicate green, blue or saffron tints, present a most beautiful sight as they swim lazily about amid the gorgonias and corals of the Bermudas, now shining like polished steel or silver, anon scintillating as though studded with gems, or presenting the sheen of watered silk, as the sunlight, streaming through the clear water, strikes their rainbow-colored scales. In the same localities the parrot fishes sport their gorgeous hues of green, scarlet, blue and amethyst, while slipping stealthily among the rocks; the green parrot fish changes instantly from red to green or particolors, according to his surroundings, in a remarkably chameleon-like manner.

This brilliant fellow is not the only fish possessing the power of "changing his spots" at will, by any means. Some of our commonest fishes have been found to not only change the shape and color of their markings according to the locality in which they may happen to be, but more remarkable still, have actually been found to have an entirely different color while sleeping from the one we are accustomed to seeing them wear. Among these are the "Tautog" or "Blackfish" and the common "Flounder" The former while swimming about during the day is attired in a rather pretty costume of greenish-gray, barred and mottled with dusky black, whereas, during the night, and while resting on the bottom, he assumes a nightgown of dull dusky hue, or, if retiring among eel grass, is safely protected during his slumber by a costume of closely set bands of dark and light color, which blend perfectly with his surroundings. The common "Scup" or "Scuppaug" also assumes a night livery of black and silvery stripes while among the eel grass, in place of his bright pearl coat of day. Observations of these strange habits can only be carried on when the subjects are confined in an aquarium, and even then caution must be exercised, as upon the first noise or flash of light, our finny friends awake and reassume their customary colors.

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

Seaweed and Fish Fertilizer Recipes

FOOD POWER FROM THE SEA
By Lee Fryer and Dick Simmons
(Seaweed and Fish Fertilizers)

RECIPES AND HOW-TO-DO-ITS
Wine-makers, cooks, lovers, and fertilizer people have traits in common: as artists, they help Nature, then unashamedly take credit for Nature's work. As liars, they believe their own stories; therefore, are the world's most honest people. With that warning, we shall share recipes with you.

Liquid Sunshine: Bud Builder and Plant Hardener
The sugar-based "liquid sunshine" is a bit difficult for lay people to make and use in its fully technical formulation; however, a simplified version can be made by any gardener or nursery person. Based on seaweed, it provides nutrients that help plants to harden their tissues, set flower buds, resist frost damage, increase yields, and repel insects. The recipe is as follows for 1 quart quantities. Farmers and nurserymen can multiply the amounts by 10, 100, or 1,000 depending on the sizes of their operations.
1 pint Corn syrup, such as Karo (contains 500 grams sugar)
2 ounces Liquid seaweed extract
1 pint Water
1 teaspoon Boric acid
1 quart (approx.) Total
Mix well.
Directions: Dilute 4 tablespoons of "liquid sunshine" per gallon of water. Spray on foliage of plants until wet. For tomatoes, spray 3 times at weekly intervals, beginning in July or as tomatoes begin to form on plants. For rhododendrons, azaleas, and other broad-leaf evergreens, spray three times at weekly intervals, beginning in late August. To harden roses and other plants and prevent frost damage, spray three times, at weekly intervals, commencing one month before expected first killing frost.
Good luck. You are a pioneer, and on your own! We don't carry malpractice insurance.

"Dry" Liquid Sunshine: Bud Builder and Plant Hardener
Based on similar principles, this special dry fertilizer also has capabilities for helping plants to harden their tissues, build buds, resist frost, increase yields, and repel pests. In this formulation seaweed acts as a sugar-maker and supplier, along with the other ingredients. The carrageenen in seaweed is a carbohydrate ... a sugar of the sea . . . acting in place of corn syrup in the liquid formulation. And, both seaweed and FTE are boron-suppliers. Here is the recipe:
10 lbs. Dry compost and/or peat moss, or other organic base material
20 lbs. Dry seaweed meal
5 lbs. Bone meal or single superphosphate
10 lbs. Sulphate of potash-magnesia (Sul-po-mag—see Appendix), or, 5 lbs. sulphate of potash
1 lb. Fritted trace elements (FTE—see Appendix)
4 lbs. Agricultural gypsum or lime
50 lbs. Total
Put ingredients in a pile and mist thoroughly. If you use 5 lbs. of sulphate of potash instead of 10 lbs. of Sul-po-mag, just add another 5 lbs. of compost to make up the difference. If you cannot get FTE, leave it out and add compost. Be practical, use your imagination. Don't get frustrated.
Apply the bud builder broadcast over the root feeding area in late summer or early fall. For shrubs, roses, and small trees, apply one small handful per foot of height of plant. For fruit trees, apply 1 to 5 lbs. per tree, depending on size. For berries and gardens, apply 1 lb. per 100 square feet of area.
Ecological Garden Fertilizer1— Nickname: Deluxe Eco-Grow
' From Ecological Gardening for Home Foods by Lee Fryer and Dick Simmons. New
York: Mason/Charter Publishers, 1975.
To make this all-purpose garden fertilizer, we suggest using any good organic-based fertilizer as a primary ingredient, since many readers would otherwise have difficult)' finding and buying fertilizer materials in their own neighborhoods. Then, seaweed and other special ingredients may be added. Here is the recipe: *
• See Appendix for descriptions of some of these ingredients.
10 lbs. Any good organic-based garden fertilizer, such as 5-10-10 or 6-10-4. Or, a rose fertilizer
5 lbs. Ureaform or "organiform"
5 lbs. Bone meal, or superphosphate if bone meal is unavailable
4 lbs. Sulphate of potash, and
1 lb. Epsom salts, or (5 lbs.) Sulphate of potash magnesia * (Sul-po-mag)
* Sulphate of potash-magnesia contains both sulphate of potash and Epsom sails, therefore may be used in place of these two ingredients. 3 See previous citation
10 lbs. Seaweed meal
15 lbs. Compost or dry manure
50 lbs. Total
Pour the ingredients in a pile and mix thoroughly. If needed to increase bulk or reduce dust, add 5 lbs. of damp peat moss or garden mulch.
Use at rate of 4 lbs. per 100 square feet of garden area, tilled into soil. Also, may be sowed under rows when planting seeds or transplants. For shrubs and bushes, use one small handful per foot of height of plant; for trees, use 1 to 5 lbs. per tree depending on size.

Full Organic Garden Fertilizer2: Nickname: Eco-Organic
To avoid problems finding various materials, this fertilizer, too, is made with any locally available organic fertilizer as a primary ingredient. Here is a recipe:
15 lbs. Any good 100 percent organic garden fertilizer available in your area; such as a 5-8-5 or 5-10-10
10 lbs. Ground rock phosphate or bone meal; or both
15 lbs. Compost or dry manure
10 lbs. Seaweed meal
50 lbs. Total
Mix thoroughly and use as described above for Eco-Grow.

Seaweed and Fish Blend: Dry Ingredients
To make this deluxe fertilizer, we specify more fish and less seaweed, since: (a) fish provides the essential nitrogen, phosphate, and potash, plus other minerals, (b) seaweed supplies hormones and chelates that are effective in lesser amounts, and (c) seaweed's trace minerals, beyond those provided by fish, are required in only tiny quantities, if at all. Therefore, we suggest a ratio of about 2/3 fish and 1/3 seaweed in a straight blend of these materials.
However, since seaweed and fish are concentrated materials and quite costly, we suggest that other locally available materials may be blended with them. The following recipe may be used:
10 lbs. Dry seaweed meal
20 lbs. Feed-grade fish meal
20 lbs. Any lower cost bulk material, such as agricultural lime (dolomite), gypsum, humate, rock phosphate, compost, or dry manure
____________
50 lbs. Total
Pour these ingredients in a pile and mix thoroughly with a shovel or other implement.
If fertilizer-grade fish meal is available, it may already contain a suitable diluent. In that case, simply mix 75 percent fertilizer-grade fish meal and 25 percent seaweed meal.
Use at a rate of ½ to 1 lb. per 100 square feet of soil area (200 to 500 lbs. per acre) to stimulate and nourish soil bacteria, as well as the plants and crops.

Liquid Seaweed and Fish Blend
To make this deluxe liquid fertilizer, the following guides should be observed:
1. Don't mix alkaline fish (pH of 7.0 or higher) with alkaline seaweed. They are incompatible.
2. SM-3 liquid seaweed has an acid reaction (pH below 7.0) and may be mixed with any kind of liquid fish, including fish solubles (fish "emulsion"). Fish solubles are alkaline.
3. Carpole's liquid fish is of acid reaction, and may be blended with all kinds of liquid seaweed, including Maxicrop, Sea Born, Sea Crop, SM-3 and Sea Spraa.

With the above guides, we suggest the following recipe:
75 percent liquid fish
25 percent liquid seaweed
100 percent Total
Mix thoroughly with a paddle, beater, pump, or outboard motor, depending on quantity.
This deluxe liquid fertilizer may be used at the rate of 1 gallon per acre, mixed with 100 gallons of water, or with the amount of water convenient for spray equipment. Spray on foliage of plants until they are thoroughly wet.
Add WEX, TWEEN, Triton, or any other good wetting agent (surfactant), if available, following instructions on the label. It will promote effective action when the seaweed/fish blend is sprayed on the plants.

Seaweed Compost
Seaweed contains insufficient nitrogen for making a good compost, so nitrogenous materials should be added. Remember, a good carbon/nitrogen ratio for composting is 10 to 1; and, as is, seaweed contains less than 1 percent nitrogen. The following guides may be used for making seaweed compost:
600 lbs. Wet seaweed from beach or shore
200 lbs. Manure, compost, fish, feathers, slaughter waste, sludge, or other nitrogenous wastes
100 lbs. Agricultural lime and/or gypsum
100 lbs. Rock phosphate or other phosphate
1,000 lbs. Total
Mix thoroughly, handle and turn as when making any other kind of compost. Loamy soil may be added to the pile, if desired. Adding rock phosphate or other phosphate material is desirable, since seaweed and the nitrogenous wastes are low in this essential food, and compost bacteria need phosphate while doing their work.
The finished compost may be screened and coarser chunks returned to the next compost piles.

Foliage Brightener: A Chlorophyll-Maker
When plants get tired in summertime, they may lose green color (chlorophyll) in their leaves; and photosynthesis (sugarmaking) may therefore decline sharply. Supplies of iron which flowed abundantly in April have dwindled. Magnesium is moving from chlorophyll cells to fruiting sites, to help in making seeds, leaving the leaves wan and pale between their veins (chlorosis), and nitrogen, the always-needed nutrient, is in low supply.
To restore color and vitality in such plants without including soft growth to be damaged by frost, a seaweed-based liquid fertilizer may be used. The recipe is as follows:
4 oz. Iron chelate: ask for Geigy's, KE-MIN, or other good product at your garden store
1 lb. Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate)
8 oz. Liquid seaweed concentrate
4 oz. Potassium nitrate; call a chemical supply company
To mix, fill a gallon jug half fall of warm water and add all the ingredients. Stopper and shake well until all are dissolved. Then fill the jug with more water. This makes 1 gallon of liquid concentrate.
Dilute 1 cup of this concentrate with 1 gallon of water to make the spray material. WEX, Triton, or other wetting agent may he added to assist in application to plants. Spray them once or twice. They will reward you by greening nicely and getting happy again.
In this "leaf brightener," you are using the cytokinin technology of Gerald Blunden and others, who have shown that liquid seaweed improves efficiency of photosynthesis in plants. Also, you are providing iron and magnesium, the chlorophyll makers, along with potash and boron—and a wee bit of nitrogen to sustain the plant in its autumn seed-building operations.
For more information about the materials and ingredients for these recipes see the Appendix A.

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