How to Operate and Handle a Motor Boat

How to Operate and Handle a Motor Boat

By A. Hyatt Verrill

From The American Boy magazine, July 1910. Digitized by Doug Frizzle, June 2014.

NOWADAYS small power boats are so cheap, so reliable and so simple that many boys and even girls, own and operate their own boats very successfully. But even though the makers’ boast “That a child can run one” may be literally true, yet do not think that because you can “run” your motor that this is all that is necessary or advisable to know. As long as the motor goes well and nothing unexpected happens, the boat will almost run itself, but gasoline motors have a peculiar habit of stopping now and then and balking like a fractious horse with apparently as little reason. At such times the boy that can merely “run” his boat is in a bad fix for unless one knows what the trouble is and how to remedy it, he must call on some other boat to tow him home or depend on his oars and must then go to quite a little trouble and expense to hire some “trouble man” to put his motor in order again. In this little article I shall try to tell you what to do and what is of more importance perhaps, what NOT to do, to operate, care for and handle a power boat intelligently, safely and in a way to get the greatest pleasure and service from your craft with the least trouble and expense.

In the first place always bear in mind that a gasoline engine must have gasoline, proper lubrication, good electrical equipment and proper water circulation in order to run. If your engine has been properly installed and tested any failure in its operation will be due to one of these primary necessities failing, unless something is broken, bent or injured. Nine-tenths of motor troubles are due to electrical faults while the other tenth are usually due to gasoline trouble. Old batteries, broken or worn wires, poor connections, wet or dampness on batteries or spark coil, carbon on spark plug or electrodes and in fact a great number of other little things will stop an engine and cause it to absolutely refuse to work until the proper repair or adjustment is made. And right here let me advise you to always bear in mind that the little things are what count with a gas engine. If your engine has been running smoothly and suddenly stops, or begins to miss explosions and gradually slows down and stops, first look over all your wiring and batteries. Every power boat owner should be equipped with an “Ammeter” a little watch-like instrument for testing batteries. Fig. 1. These Ammeters cost only a couple of dollars and will save you many times that amount in batteries, time and worry. If your wires are all whole, in good condition and the connections at batteries, switch and engine, clean and tight, look to your batteries. Disconnect the wire from spark electrode (on make and break engine) turn on the switch and rub the end of the wire against some part of the cylinder. If a bright spark appears you may be sure that your batteries are not at fault. Turn over your fly wheel (with wire still disconnected) until in the firing position and then rub your free wire against the electrode end. If a spark still shows the trouble is other than electrical. If a spark fails to appear it is a certain sign that your firing points are either dirty, worn or improperly adjusted. Take out the electrodes from cylinder and clean them thoroughly with gasoline and if they move stiffly lubricate with a little kerosene. Now try the spark again and nine times out of ten you will find it sparks all right and as soon as wires are connected your motor will run along smoothly again. Much of such trouble can be avoided by proper and not excessive lubrication.

In the case of your engine being of the jump-spark system you should proceed differently. Remove spark plug, lay it on the cylinder or some other portion of the engine, with wires connected, turn on your switch and turn wheel over until the vibrator on coil buzzes. If your batteries and wiring are in order a bright blue spark will run between the two electrodes on spark plug end. If they do not appear, turn off switch, connect a new plug to wire and try again. If on this trial you do not get a spark your wires are short-circuited somewhere and you must find the spot by going over the wires inch by inch and trying all connections. Also test your batteries and discard any that register lower than ten amperes and place new ones in their places. The vibrator on coil should buzz clearly, steadily, and with a high-pitched tone but unless it works unevenly, or refuses to buzz, you had best not try to adjust it yourself as vibrator coils are delicate instruments and a slight mistake in adjustment may ruin them beyond repair. If you find your sparking apparatus in first class shape and your motor still refuses to work, look to the carburetor or vaporizer for trouble (of course I take it for granted that you will be sure that there is gasoline in the tank) for the cheap vaporizers furnished with many motors are sources of constant trouble and you cannot spend a few dollars to better advantage than by investing in a really good carburetor of the float-feed type Fig. 2, and having it properly installed and adjusted. If the motor refuses to make even one revolution open the drain cock at base of cylinder and turn the wheel over. If gasoline issues from the cock it shows your engine-base is flooded and probably after working the excess out by turning the wheel while the cock is open, your motor will start. As soon as it does so, turn oft your gasoline supply, or needle valve, Fig. 3-A until the motor begins to miss explosions, or back explosions occur. Then turn on the valve slowly until the engine runs smoothly. Flooding will seldom bother you if provided with a carburetor but will happen right along if you depend on a vaporizer. Fig. 3. Sometimes your motor will stop from too little gasoline but this usually is shown by back explosions,—a bumpy sort of sound accompanied with puffs of blue smoke issuing from engine base joints and carburetor. In this case open the gasoline supply, Fig. 2-A, a little more, or turn off the air supply Fig. 2-B-B slightly, until the back-firing ceases. After once adjusting your carburetor so that engine runs smoothly never change it until you have made sure that any trouble is not elsewhere. Sometimes, too, an engine will stop suddenly without apparent reason and even when batteries, coil, and spark are all right and base is not flooded, it will refuse to budge. This may be due to dirt or water in the gasoline. Take the pipe off at carburetor, Fig. 2-C, or remove the cap on top, Fig. 2-D, and let a little gasoline flow through. As soon as the gasoline is clear try your engine again. If your carburetor supply-pipe is provided with a settling chamber this trouble will seldom occur and if you have a float-feed carburetor you can avoid water troubles by draining off a little gasoline from the bottom of carburetor, Fig. 2-E every morning before using your boat. The best way to avoid all trouble of this sort however is to carefully strain your gaso­line through chamois skin when putting it in the tank and by keeping the tank well covered and protected from rain and spray. If your motor gets hot, pounds and stops, or begins to slow down, stop it at once and look after your water cooling system. A water cooled motor—and most motor boats have this type—must have a steady circulation of water through the water-jacket on cylinder. If your engine uses a rotary pump you will seldom have trouble but if a plunger pump is used you will often find that a bit of dirt or weed has caught in one of the check-valves of the water pipe and thus stopped the circulation. To ascertain if this is the trou­ble loosen the cap to the check valves, Figs. 4 and 5 A, A, one at a time, in the pipe either side of pump and see if they are clean. Then try the engine for a few revolutions, and if wa­ter is circulating properly the pipe next to cylinder will feel cold and you can also open the water-jacket drain cock on cylinder to see if water is filling the jacket. Still another way is to loosen the cap on the check-valve nearest the cylinder and if pump is working well the water will spurt out from around the loose cap. As soon as this happens tighten up the cap again. Sometimes your pump may need tighten­ing of the packing around the plunger and if the water fails to circulate after valves are clean, try tightening up the packing-collar a little. Fig 5-B. A great source of trouble in pumps comes from the all-too-common habit of using the pump for a bilge pump at times. This should never be done for even if a strainer is provided so fine as to prevent anything passing through the pump that will clog the valves, yet the fine grit and mud will in time wear out the check-valves as well as clog the water-jacket.

If your engine turns over very hard, open the relief valve on cylinder-head and if it still turns hard you can be sure that your lubrication needs looking into or that something is bent or out of line. Too much lubrication is almost as bad as too little and the common practice of allow­ing your oil cups to run a perfect stream for a time and then shutting them off altogether, cannot be too strongly con­demned. Adjust the oilers until the oil drops evenly and steadily from six to fif­teen drops a minute, keep them filled and keep them open as long as engine is run­ning. The compression grease cups on shaft should be kept filled also and should be turned tight now and then. Do not waste time and strength in cranking an engine; unless something is radically wrong it will fire on two turns as well as on twenty and to keep on turning it over is likely to result in flooding the base with unburned gasoline. If after proper oiling it still turns hard, disconnect the engine shaft from propeller shaft and try it: a properly adjusted and properly oiled motor (up to ten horse power) when free of shaft and load and with compression relief open, should turn easily with thumb and finger of one hand; if it takes more than this amount of muscular effort something is wrong in adjustment or lubrication. Sometimes the cylinder,—especially if the engine has been overheated,—will become dry and the piston will stick. In this case remove cylinder head and pour in a good lot of kerosene. After this has stood some time, wipe out and pour in oil. Then turn engine over a few times, put head in place and try running it. It is not always necessary to take off the head as many engines are provided with a relief and priming cock on cylinder head and oil and kerosene may be poured through this. In the case of a jump-spark motor the plug may be removed and oil poured through the hole. Sometimes an engine will be hard to start, especially in cold weather. If it fails to start on one or two turns it should be primed by injecting a little gasoline through the relief or priming cup. This will usually start the motor but if it gives one or two explosions and then stops, the trouble is in the gasoline supply or carburetor. Always keep all joints and nuts tight and free from wiggling and wipe all grease and oil from your engine after running it. A good engineer can always be told by the condition of his motor or engine and if not neglected a motor can be kept as free from dirt and grease as a sewing machine or typewriter. Learn to know the sounds your engine makes when running smoothly and you will soon find that you are able to detect the least trouble long before the motor stops. Have your batteries and wires where you can reach them quickly, and easily but see that they are thoroughly protected from the weather. A watertight box holding the batteries, coil, etc., placed on a thwart near the engine is very handy and is far better than having them thrown into a drawer or locker under a seat. Fig. 6-B. In very bad, rainy weather or when not in use for some time, the whole box can be taken out and placed indoors thus rendering your boat thief-proof and protecting the electrical equipment at the same time. If you have a jump-spark engine it is wise to provide some sort of protector for the plug, Fig. 6-P, most spark-plugs will short-circuit if wet with rain or spray and cause a lot of trouble. The “Reliance” plug will spark under water but when hot from the engine and then wet by spray, the steam will cause short-circuiting even in this plug. There are numerous inexpensive protectors on the market but even an old cap or a piece of rubber cloth thrown over the plug will help a great deal. Short-circuiting at the plug is easily detected by a crackling sound and blue streaks of sparks running across the plug itself. In case this occurs turn off the switch, wipe the plug dry and smear with thick grease. Have a good kit of tools handy at all times; there should be a hammer, screwdriver, a pair of pliers, a monkey wrench, pipe wrench (Stilson) and an “S” or Westcott wrench. Cotton waste, oil, grease, kerosene, and extra gasoline should always be stored in some convenient locker or box. Fig. 6 (T). Make a point of keeping your brass work polished or at least oiled and clean and free from horrid, green verdigris. Nothing looks worse than neglected brass work and a few moments spent cleaning it is more than repaid by appearances and the saving of corrosion. If you cannot keep it bright and clean, it is better by far to paint it with a good enamel paint.

A few extra screws, nuts, bolts, nails and some electric wire should always be on hand and in case of a jump-spark motor an extra plug should always be carried, as a plug is liable to give out at any time and although usually they can be repaired it saves time and lessens danger to change to a new plug and fix the old one at your leisure. Keep your engine covered with canvas or oil cloth when not in use and cultivate a pride in the appearance of your motor as much as in your boat. I have seen many a finely-finished and “yachty” boat in which the engine was neglected, rusty, dirty and covered with old grease and dirt. Such conditions are inexcusable and point to either slovenly habits in other matters or else to ignorance on the owner’s part as to the requirements of a motor. No piece of machinery can be depended upon if neglected and a gasoline motor, although so strong and simple, is in reality a beautiful and delicate piece of machinery. Such an abused engine may, and at times does, run remarkably well but you may be sure that it would run a hundred per cent better if properly cared for. I cannot tell you everything about a motor or a motor boat in an article like this but I hope that with the above hints you will find many of your troubles ended, but before closing I must give you a list of don’ts which every boy using a boat,— whether power or sail,—should memorize, or if this is not possible, they should be pasted up where he can see them at any time. I have boated and sailed for thirty years in all sorts of craft under all sorts of conditions and have never suffered from any accident or weather, mainly because I have always taken proper precaution and have not been afraid to be on the safe side instead of trying to be smart or "showing off.” The more experienced the sailor, the more cautious he will be and lack of precaution and care only shows ignorance and bravado. Scores of lives are lost every year by boats becoming unmanageable or disabled and not being provided with food, water, oars or anchor.

Don’t go on any trip, no matter how short, without oars and anchor.

Don’t go any distance without a jug of water and a can of biscuit. It is safer to always keep them in a locker. You never know when you may need them.

Don’t overload your boat or needlessly go out in bad weather.

Don’t see how close you can run to larger boats to "get the swell.”

Don’t push your boat at full speed in heavy seas, it strains the boat and engine, throws spray and may result in swamping.

Don’t run before a very heavy sea, go across it diagonally if possible.

Don’t run in the trough of the sea, bring her head up to meet each wave.

Don’t try to lay to (keep your boat motionless) in rough weather without a sea anchor, drag or riding-sail. An old oar, a tin bucket, a bunch of canvas, some cushions or in fact any object that will float, fastened to a line passed over the bows will keep your boat head to the seas and make her ride easily. If you cannot arrange this, a piece of awning or cloth lashed to a pole, or oar, and held upright at the stern like a sail, will keep your boat head on to the wind. If oil is poured on your drag it will help a great deal in heavy seas and even oil thrown overboard from the bows will do wonders.

Don’t expect every other boat to get out of your way, the rules of the road on the water are as definite as on land and must be adhered to. If the other fellow violates them it is no reason you should. Keep to the rules and if anything goes wrong it will not be you that is at fault.

Don’t go out in misty or foggy weather without horn, compass, and bell. A small compass should always be on board.

Don’t go out at night without lights.

Don’t run fast in waters you are unfamiliar with. "Haste makes waste” and a sunken pile, stake or reef can send a small boat to the bottom very easily.

Don’t try to come to a dock under full headway. Better stop too soon and paddle up or start over again.

Don’t allow anyone to smoke near your gasoline tank, or to drop cigar or cigarette ashes in your boat, or to light matches near the bottom of your boat. Friends may not like to obey your orders but friends are cheaper than gasoline explosions.

Don’t look into a gasoline tank or fill it by lantern, or candle light. Use an electric pocket search lamp,—or do it in daytime.

Don’t run your boat when on the mud or sand if you can possibly avoid it.

Don’t let weeds, ropes, or lines get twisted around your propeller.

Don’t start out without gasoline, batteries, and oil.

Don’t fail to use judgment, care, and caution, and follow all directions furnished with your engine or boat without fail.

Making Acadia Gas Engines

THE MAKING OF THE ACADIA GAS ENGINES - from THE BUSY EAST magazine 1918

Adapted from http://www.oldmarineengine.com/history/Acadia/AcadiaBusyEast.htm

by Doug Frizzle June 2010.

One of the marvels of modern mechanism has been the development of the gas engine, and a few paragraphs can very profitably be devoted to the history of this machine, which occupies such an important place in the industrial life of the present day.

Soon after the discovery of the piston, attempts were made to employ it for other powers than steam. Huyghens (1629-1695) tried to utilize the explosive force of gunpowder as early as 1680. Illuminating gas was later tried by many inventors. In 1799 Le Bon, a clever French artisan, patented a gas engine, which employed a piston and cylinder, took illuminating gas from a reservoir, mixed it with atmospheric air and exploded it by means of an electric spark on alternate sides of its piston. His engine was automatic and theoretically all right but the high price of illuminating gas and the difficulties of generating electricity rendered his engine impractical from a financial standpoint, though considering the state of the general mechanic arts of that time, the Le Bon engine was an excellent one. In 1860, sixty years after Le Bon, a man named Le Noir obtained a French patent for practically the same engine, but it used one hundred cubic feet of gas per horse-power-hour. As gas for the test cost about $2 per thousand feet and coal $6 per ton, the fuel for the gas engine cost several times as much as the fuel to do the same work by steam. A Parisian inventor, Hugon, produced an engine which was slightly more economical than Le Noirs. In 1867 Otto and Langen, of Cologne, exhibited at the Paris Exhibition a gas engine which consumed thirty-eight cubic feet of gas per horse-power-hour. This was a great improvement over the LeNoir and Hugon type of engine but was intolerably noisy. The cost of fuel, too, was still too high. Brayton, in 1872, patented a gas engine or more strictly speaking a hot air, for he used largely the expansive force of hot air. The Brayton engine was eighteen per cent more economical than the Otto and Langen engine and worked without any of the distracting noise of the latter. In 1876 Otto brought out a new engine in which was embodied the famous Otto Cycle (a definite series of motions constantly, repeated) the method in general used today. It was found that if the gas and air were subjected to a heavy pressure and then exploded, the resulting force was much greater than under less pressure. The essential feature of the Otto Cycle is the application of this principle. It was advocated by Barnett in 1838, tried by several, and successfully applied by Otto in 1876. During the past thirty or forty years the development of the gas engine has been rapid. One by one have difficulties been overcome; step by step has progress been made nearer and yet nearer perfection has the engine been brought, until today gas or gasoline engines are simple and easy of operation, and are used widely for all purposes where power in moderate quantities is required.

It would he interesting to trace the development of stationary gas engines and of automobiles, but for the present we will confine our attention to marine engines operated on gasoline or kerosene. Not so many years ago the departure of a fishing fleet for the Banks of Newfoundland meant the unfurling of countless sails to the wind, the noiseless gliding of the graceful schooners with their fair sails set to catch the faintest breeze. In former days a fishing fleet presented an artistic picture of exceeding beauty. Today the beauty has given place to the modern boat, which goes rapidly to sea to the rhythmic chug, chug, of the efficient, up-to-date gas engine.

It was recently the pleasure and privilege of the writer to visit the plant of the Acadia Gas Engines, Limited, of Bridgewater, Nova Scotia, and to trace step by step the process which takes gray iron, brass, steel, bronze and copper, and converts them into a marine gas engine which provides cheap, efficient and reliable power at very moderate cost.

Of course the beginning of anything is the thought, the idea, which take shape in blue prints, plans, sketches, figures. Few things worth while happen by chance. The idea of making gas engines at Bridgewater, of building up a great industry on the banks of the La Have, had its birth in the mind of the present general manager and president of the company. Mr. W. T. Ritcey, who in 1908 established the business in Bridgewater.

It will be impossible to describe in detail each step in the process of making an Acadia gas engine. Such a task is quite beyond the writer to whom a gas engine has always been a thing of mystery. We will, however, touch upon a few of the more important things and will describe with some particularity the chief parts of that wonderful machine; which has done so much to make the fisherman's life pleasant and happy.

In an upper chamber in the Acadia plant, from plans and blue prints, the wooden, brass, and aluminum patterns of the various parts which compose the Acadia engine are manufactured. These patterns go to the foundry, a structure one hundred by forty six feet in size. To the casual observer this shop resembles an ordinary stove foundry, but closer inspection a number of important differences. Not only do we find an iron furnace, as in a stove foundry, but brass furnaces as well. There the molding of the parts for an engine offers greater difficulty than in the case of a stove, for the reason that an engine is much more complex. The mold of the outside of an engine cylinder, for instance, is fashioned in ordinary molding sand by the use of the wooden pattern. The molds for the bore and water jacket, are made by mixing sand, core oil and other ingredients together, molding the sand into the required shape in what are called core boxes, and then baking these cores for about twenty five minutes in an oven having a temperature of 200 degrees Fahrenheit. When it comes from the oven this core can be handled without breaking, provided care is exercised. The cores are placed in the flask or wooden case containing the molds. Everything is carefully prepared, the two parts of the flask are clamped together and all is readiness for the cast. In the top of the flask is an aperture through which the liquid metal runs, the casting being done as in the case of stoves and ranges. The heat of the molten metal burns up the oil used in making the core mold, and the sand falls away from the casting, the same as the green sand, which has been mixed with water. In the Acadia plant castings are made three times a week, an average of five and a half tons of gray iron being used each time. About seven hundred pounds of brass is cast each working day.

After being taken out of the flasks, the castings are carried to a machine known as a mill to be cleaned, later being taken to the machine shop, where very interesting work is done.

Upon entering the machine shop, one is attracted by a very large machine, which suggests a turret on a man-of-war. This is a Bullard vertical boring and reaming machine, specially designed for the purpose of boring gas engine cylinders. After being bored the outside surfaces or bosses of the cylinder are milled to make perfectly square and true joints, and they are then drilled by the use of a machine called a jig, which accurately places each hole and makes them strictly interchangeable. Various operations follow in quick succession, until finally the cylinder goes to the paint shop where it is cleaned and painted later going to the basement where the water jacket is tested. Eventually the cylinder finds itself in the erecting shop where the assemblers do their work. The water jacket of the Acadia cylinder has a large space completely encircling the combustion chamber, which ensures a cool piston, avoiding the possibility of over heating and making the oil more efficient.

The principle parts of the gas engine are of course the cylinder, crook cases, crank shaft, connecting rod, piston, igniter and carburetor. We have referred to the cylinder and now we will describe briefly the other parts of the Acadia engine.

The crank cases are made of cast iron and are surfaced on milling machines or by heavy shapers giving a true surface. They are designed for large bearings which are made of a high grade babbit metal, reamed to standard size and guaranteeing a perfect running bearing. The crank case of each Acadia engine has either one or two large hand holes which permit quick removal of the connection rod.

By referring to the cut of the crank case herewith the reader will note the design of the top and bottom crank cases, which gives a split bearing and which affords an opportunity of removing the liners and taking up the wear and having a tight bearing.

Acadia crank shafts are drop-forged from specially designed dies and made of open hearth steel by the largest drop-forging company in the country. The bearings are large and made to exact size; the cranks are guaranteed against breaking.

The connecting rods are of the I beam design and are made extra long to eliminate the lateral strain as much as possible. The rods are made of a high mixture of bronze, which is designed to withstand the severe shocks and stresses set up by the force of the explosions, and does not crystallize under such conditions. The wrist pin end is made to fasten the pin securely to the connecting rod and the crank pin end is fitted with bearings of the best quality of white metal, and so constructed that any wear occurring may be readily taken up or adjusted by the removal of liners.

Acadia pistons are the same high grade iron as the cylinders so that the expansion is the same. They are of the trunk pattern, being extra long and having a curved baffle plate to prevent the entering charge from mixing with the exploded gases. The rings are ground true and are eccentric, so that they will expand with equal pressure against the walls of the cylinder, making a perfect compression. The piston bushings in which the wrist pin turns are the best quality of Phospor bronze and are interchangeable.

The make and break igniter is a special feature of the Acadia engine on account of its simplicity. The number of parts used in its construction are reduced to a minimum and each part can be removed and replaced at little expense. The igniter in held in place on the motor by two steel studs and nuts, and is provided with a copper gasket so that a slight strain on these nuts will make a tight joint The spark points can be readily adjusted without removing the igniter and the electrical current cannot be short circuited by water, which has much to do with the superior operation of the engine.

All Acadia engines are designed to lubricate through the gasoline supply, which is the most reliable and accurate method. The heavy duty types are also fitted with sight feed oilers which oil the cylinder and wrist pin in piston, and the crank pin is lubricated by means of a centrifugal ring oiler which is a positive lubrication.

Acadia combined kerosene and gasoline injector carburetor has proved a great success because of its simplicity and efficiency, and its adaptability to any of the thousands of two cycle engines in use. This carburetor is attached to the engine by means of one connection only and will burn kerosene with equally an good results as any carburetor, either kerosene or gasoline in use at the present time.

The Acadia is of the two cycle or two stroke design, which eliminates gears, cams, valves, etc., thus affording the most simple construction. Nearly every part going into the construction of this excellent engine is manufactured in the Acadia plant, the only exceptions being the necessary electrical apparatus, and small parts such as screws and bolts, which are manufactured by specialists in that line of work.

After being assembled the engine is taken to the testing shop, where it undergoes a most rigid test lasting from one to five hours. Later the engine is painted, numbered, crated and made ready for shipment.

The growth of the business of the Acadia Company has been remarkable. Starting in a small way in 1908, only ten years ago, this concern today enjoys the distinction of being the largest manufacturer of two cycle gas engines in Canada. The corporation was originally called the Acadia Gas Engine Company, Limited, but upon re-organization in May, 1917, the name was changed to the Acadia Gas Engines, Limited. The authorized capital is $200,000 in common stock and $100,000 in bonds. So far $150,000 in common stock and $75,000 in bonds have been issued. The Company is incorporated under a Nova Scotia charter and is conducted in a way to merit the approval of its patrons and its shareholders. Nearly night thousand Acadia engines are now in use and that number is being increased yearly by about twenty four hundred. The company's turnover this year will be upwards of $700,000 and the day is not far distant when the output will reach the million mark. The most popular engines manufactured by them are the 1, 2 and 3 cylinder variety with make and break spark. Acadia engines are mostly found throughout the Maritime Provinces, the Gaspe coast of Quebec, Newfoundland and Labrador. Three years ago a branch office was opened in St. John's. Newfoundland, with Mr. David 0. Neill, manager, and Mr. R. W. Ritcey. superintendent. The present officers and directors are as follows: President and general manager, Mr. W. T. Ritcey; secretary treasurer, Mr. M. S. Lohnes; R. W. Elliott, Halifax; Frank W. Elliott. Middleton. N. S.; C. A. Hubley; D. H. Ritcey, Bridgewater; William Duff, M. P.,Lunenburg. The company employ nearly a hundred men, on an average, and pay out upwards of one hundred thousand dollars per year in wages.

The plant of the company is conveniently located, the buildings are admirably adapted for their purpose, the machinery particularly well arranged and the system of work of undoubted excellence. In a word their facilities for manufacturing gas engines are splendid and one can well understand the reason that their business has grown seven thousand percent in a decade. A growth so wonderful, so phenomenal, must be the result of undoubted merit. The Acadia gas engine has assuredly "made good."

During the past summer a splendid garage, built of concrete blocks, has been erected. This building is 55 by 61 feet and two storeys in height. On the first floor is a well equipped garage, while on the second floor is stored "United" Stationary gas engines. American machines, of which the Acadia Company are Newfoundland and Eastern Canadian distributors and who sell large quantities. They are also selling agents for that excellent car the Chevrolet, selling seventy during the present year, with splendid prospects for large sales in the years to come. The company are also selling agents for the Maritime Provinces for the celebrated Ford-Smith Form-a-truck which solves delivery problems.

In addition to the manufacturing of internal combustion engines, Acadia Gas Engines Limited also manufacture vessels' heaving outfits, power hoists, winches, lobster pot hoists, etc.

This industry is one of the most important in Eastern Canada and without doubt has a bright future before it. With the development which must of necessity take place in the fishing industry the demand for reliable, efficient gas engines will increase rapidly. Having had ten years of unique and wonderful success and with the experience which this success has brought, the Acadia Company are in a particularly favorable position to supply the demand for high grade gas engines which will do the work that is expected of them. To increase from a turn over of $10,000, the sales of 1909, to an output of $700,000, ten years later, is surely progress rapid enough to satisfy the most ardent advocates of Maritime industrial progress, advancement and development. With so courteous, capable and energetic a president and general manager as Mr. W. T. Ritcey; with so reliable, painstaking and obliging a secretary treasurer as Mr. M. S. Lahnes; with an office force of undoubted ability, and a band of expert, faithful mechanics, Acadia Gas Engines Limited is to be heartily congratulated, for the future assuredly holds big things for the flourishing manufacturing industry on the banks of the beautiful La Have.

From Nova Scotia Blue Book and Encyclopedia 1932

From Nova Scotia Blue Book and Encyclopedia – published by Historical Publishers Association 1932 (A book first encountered at The Halifax Club, May 2010)

BIOGRAPHIES

ACADIA GAS ENGINES, LIMITED, BRIDGEWATER, N.S.— An old established firm and leader in its line which is manufacture of Acadia two and four cycle marine and stationary engines, vessels' heaving outfits, hoists, winches, lobster pot hoists, etc.

This concern occupies 65,000 square feet of space and has 65 employees. It does a large trade in Eastern Canada and British Columbia. Fifty percent of the business is exported. Business started in 1908 with 3,400 square feet for plant.

Officers are: W. T. Ritcey, president and general manager; D. A. O'Neil, vice-president and sales manager; J. E. Hirtle, secretary and treasurer.

THE PHINNEY MUSIC CO., LIMITED, HALIFAX, N.S.— Few firms in Canada can boast of as long a record of service to the musical public as The Phinney Music Co., Ltd. Established at Lawrencetown, Annapolis Co., away back in 1872 by the late Mr. N. H. Phinney, this firm has had a continuous growth, and has for many years held the position of the leading music house of the Maritimes. The present officers of the company are J. A. C. Moore, president and manager; E. F. Lordly, secretary-treasurer and manager of the sporting goods department; V. S. Josey, director.

The Phinney Music Co., Ltd. advertise a complete musical service, which with them is a statement of fact, for not only do they carry a large stock of high grade pianos, phonographs and radio receivers, but they also have a very complete line of small instruments, records and sheet music. In addition to this they maintain a strictly modern service department which is equipped to handle any and all repairs to musical instruments from the violin to the pipe organ.

In 1924 a Sporting Goods Department was opened, specializing in high grade sporting goods and in 1931 an electric department was added, featuring electric refrigerators and washing machines.

From the inception of the firm in 1872 until this present day their name has been synonomous with fair dealing, honest value, courteous and efficient service.

Independent of their successful commercial activities, the directors have always shown a deep interest in civic and community affairs. They are convinced that Nova Scotia is by nature the finest country in the world and all their efforts are directed toward making it a yet brighter and happier place in which to live.

John Alexander Campbell Moore of Halifax, president of the company, is of pioneer stock, his grandparents coming, two from the north of Ireland and two of Scottish descent. He was born in Mechanic Sett, King's County, N.B., son of John and Frances (Cochrane) Moore. He attended the public schools at Mechanic Sett and at Lawrenctown (Anna County) Nova Scotia. He was brought up on a farm, taught public school for one year, spent a short time in lumbering and joined Phinney Co. in 1910. He began as office assistant, then was accountant, manager credit department, secretary-treasurer, manager. In 1928 he organized the present company, taking over the business of Phinney's, Ltd., and becoming president and manager of the new company.

Mr. Moore was married at Lawrencetown (Annapolis County), October 20, 1915, to Georgina Uniacke Whitman, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. C. B. Whitman, and grand-daughter of the late Hon. William C. Whitman, former member Nova Scotia Legislative Council. They have one child, Marion Frances Moore, born March 20, 1920.

He is a Mason, St. Andrew's Lodge, No. 1, A. F. & A. M, R.N.S. Scottish Rite — Valley of Halifax. He is also a member of the Rotary, City, and Halifax (Curling) Clubs. Is a member of the J. Wesley Smith Memorial Church and at present treasurer, and was in charge of the Young People's Work for three years. Hobbies are curling, fishing and books.

Associated with him as directors of the company are Messrs. E. F. Lordly, secretary-treasurer, and Verner S. Josey.

Mr. Lordly is a Halifax boy who began his business career with the Royal Bank of Canada, resigning from there to become office manager for the Phinney Co. Upon the opening of the Sporting Goods Department Mr. Lordly was appointed manager. His keen interest in every form of sport made this department a success from the start. It has grown steadily and has been an immense asset to sport lovers of Nova Scotia who are now able to procure locally the best known makes of English and American sports equipment.

Mr. Verner S. Josey is also a native of Halifax. As a very young man he became connected with the Sales Department of Nerlich & Co. of Toronto and travelled the Maritime Provinces in their interests for several years, resigning to accept a position with A. M. Bell as manager of their toy department. In 1918 he became associated with the Phinney Co. as manager of the Music Department. In this capacity he has taken a particular interest in radio broadcasting and has had charge of the broadcast programs of the company, with the result that "The Phinney Cabinet of Melody" has become one of the most popular features on the air from Halifax station CHNS.