How to Operate
and Handle a Motor Boat
By A. Hyatt
Verrill
From The American Boy magazine, July 1910.
Digitized by Doug Frizzle, June 2014.
NOWADAYS small
power boats are so cheap, so reliable and so simple that many boys and even
girls, own and operate their own boats very successfully. But even though the
makers’ boast “That a child can run one” may be literally true, yet do not
think that because you can “run” your motor that this is all that is necessary
or advisable to know. As long as the motor goes well and nothing unexpected
happens, the boat will almost run itself, but gasoline motors have a peculiar
habit of stopping now and then and balking like a fractious horse with
apparently as little reason. At such times the boy that can merely “run” his boat
is in a bad fix for unless one knows what the trouble is and how to remedy it,
he must call on some other boat to tow him home or depend on his oars and must
then go to quite a little trouble and expense to hire some “trouble man” to put
his motor in order again. In this little article I shall try to tell you what
to do and what is of more importance perhaps, what NOT to do, to operate, care
for and handle a power boat intelligently, safely and in a way to get the
greatest pleasure and service from your craft with the least trouble and
expense.
In
the first place always bear in mind that a gasoline engine must have gasoline,
proper lubrication, good electrical equipment and proper water circulation in
order to run. If your engine has been properly installed and tested any failure
in its operation will be due to one of these primary necessities failing,
unless something is broken, bent or injured. Nine-tenths of motor troubles are
due to electrical faults while the other tenth are usually due to gasoline trouble.
Old batteries, broken or worn wires, poor connections, wet or dampness on
batteries or spark coil, carbon on spark plug or electrodes and in fact a great
number of other little things will stop an engine and cause it to absolutely
refuse to work until the proper repair or adjustment is made. And right here
let me advise you to always bear in mind that the little things are what count
with a gas engine. If your engine has been running smoothly and suddenly stops,
or begins to miss explosions and gradually slows down and stops, first look
over all your wiring and batteries. Every power boat owner should be equipped
with an “Ammeter” a little watch-like instrument for testing batteries. Fig. 1.
These Ammeters cost only a couple of dollars and will save you many times that
amount in batteries, time and worry. If your wires are all whole, in good
condition and the connections at batteries, switch and engine, clean and tight,
look to your batteries. Disconnect the wire from spark electrode (on make and
break engine) turn on the switch and rub the end of the wire against some part
of the cylinder. If a bright spark appears you may be sure that your batteries
are not at fault. Turn over your fly wheel (with wire still disconnected) until
in the firing position and then rub your free wire against the electrode end.
If a spark still shows the trouble is other than electrical. If a spark fails
to appear it is a certain sign that your firing points are either dirty, worn
or improperly adjusted. Take out the electrodes from cylinder and clean them
thoroughly with gasoline and if they move stiffly lubricate with a little
kerosene. Now try the spark again and nine times out of ten you will find it
sparks all right and as soon as wires are connected your motor will run along
smoothly again. Much of such trouble can be avoided by proper and not excessive
lubrication.
In the
case of your engine being of the jump-spark system you should proceed
differently. Remove spark plug, lay it on the cylinder or some other portion of
the engine, with wires connected, turn on your switch and turn wheel over until
the vibrator on coil buzzes. If your batteries and wiring are in order a bright
blue spark will run between the two electrodes on spark plug end. If they do
not appear, turn off switch, connect a new plug to wire and try again. If on
this trial you do not get a spark your wires are short-circuited somewhere and
you must find the spot by going over the wires inch by inch and trying all
connections. Also test your batteries and discard any that register lower than
ten amperes and place new ones in their places. The vibrator on coil should
buzz clearly, steadily, and with a high-pitched tone but unless it works
unevenly, or refuses to buzz, you had best not try to adjust it yourself as
vibrator coils are delicate instruments and a slight mistake in adjustment may
ruin them beyond repair. If you find your sparking apparatus in first class
shape and your motor still refuses to work, look to the carburetor or vaporizer
for trouble (of course I take it for granted that you will be sure that there
is gasoline in the tank) for the cheap vaporizers furnished with many motors
are sources of constant trouble and you cannot spend a few dollars to better
advantage than by investing in a really good carburetor of the float-feed type
Fig. 2, and having it properly installed and adjusted. If the motor refuses to
make even one revolution open the drain cock at base of cylinder and turn the
wheel over. If gasoline issues from the cock it shows your engine-base is
flooded and probably after working the excess out by turning the wheel while
the cock is open, your motor will start. As soon as it does so, turn oft your
gasoline supply, or needle valve, Fig. 3-A until the motor begins to miss
explosions, or back explosions occur. Then turn on the valve slowly until the
engine runs smoothly. Flooding will seldom bother you if provided with a
carburetor but will happen right along if you depend on a vaporizer. Fig. 3.
Sometimes your motor will stop from too little gasoline but this usually is
shown by back explosions,—a bumpy sort of sound accompanied with puffs of blue
smoke issuing from engine base joints and carburetor. In this case open the
gasoline supply, Fig. 2-A, a little more, or turn off the air supply Fig. 2-B-B
slightly, until the back-firing ceases. After once adjusting your carburetor so
that engine runs smoothly never change it until you have made sure that any
trouble is not elsewhere. Sometimes, too, an engine will stop suddenly without
apparent reason and even when batteries, coil, and spark are all right and base
is not flooded, it will refuse to budge. This may be due to dirt or water in
the gasoline. Take the pipe off at carburetor, Fig. 2-C, or remove the cap on
top, Fig. 2-D, and let a little gasoline flow through. As soon as the gasoline
is clear try your engine again. If your carburetor supply-pipe is provided with
a settling chamber this trouble will seldom occur and if you have a float-feed
carburetor you can avoid water troubles by draining off a little gasoline from the bottom of carburetor, Fig. 2-E
every morning before using your boat. The best way to avoid all trouble of this
sort however is to carefully strain your gasoline through chamois skin when
putting it in the tank and by keeping the tank well covered and protected from
rain and spray. If your motor gets hot, pounds and stops, or begins to slow
down, stop it at once and look after your water cooling system. A water cooled
motor—and most motor boats have this type—must have a steady circulation of
water through the water-jacket on cylinder. If your engine uses a rotary pump
you will seldom have trouble but if a plunger pump is used you will often find
that a bit of dirt or weed has caught in one of the check-valves of the water pipe
and thus stopped the circulation. To ascertain if this is the trouble loosen
the cap to the check valves, Figs. 4 and 5 A, A, one at a time, in the pipe
either side of pump and see if they are clean. Then try the engine for a few
revolutions, and if water is circulating properly the pipe next to cylinder
will feel cold and you can also open the water-jacket drain cock on cylinder to
see if water is filling the jacket. Still another way is to loosen the cap on
the check-valve nearest the cylinder and if pump is working well the water will
spurt out from around the loose cap. As soon as this happens tighten up the cap
again. Sometimes your pump may need tightening of the packing around the
plunger and if the water fails to circulate after valves are clean, try
tightening up the packing-collar a little. Fig 5-B. A great source of trouble
in pumps comes from the all-too-common habit of using the pump for a bilge pump
at times. This should never be done for even if a strainer is provided so fine
as to prevent anything passing through the pump that will clog the valves, yet
the fine grit and mud will in time wear out the check-valves as well as clog
the water-jacket.
If your engine turns over very hard, open the
relief valve on cylinder-head and if it still turns hard you can be sure that
your lubrication needs looking into or that something is bent or out of line.
Too much lubrication is almost as bad as too little and the common practice of
allowing your oil cups to run a perfect stream for a time and then shutting
them off altogether, cannot be too strongly condemned. Adjust the oilers until
the oil drops evenly and steadily from six to fifteen drops a minute, keep
them filled and keep them open as long as engine is running. The compression
grease cups on shaft should be kept filled also and should be turned tight now
and then. Do not waste
time and strength in cranking an engine; unless something is radically wrong it
will fire on two turns as well as on twenty and to keep on turning it over is
likely to result in flooding the base with unburned gasoline. If after proper
oiling it still turns hard, disconnect the engine shaft from propeller shaft
and try it: a properly adjusted and properly oiled motor (up to ten horse
power) when free of shaft and load and with compression relief open, should
turn easily with thumb and finger of one hand; if it takes more than this
amount of muscular effort something is wrong in adjustment or lubrication.
Sometimes the cylinder,—especially if the engine has been overheated,—will
become dry and the piston will stick. In this case remove cylinder head and
pour in a good lot of kerosene. After this has stood some time, wipe out and
pour in oil. Then turn engine over a few times, put head in place and try
running it. It is not always necessary to take off the head as many engines are
provided with a relief and priming cock on cylinder head and oil and kerosene
may be poured through this. In the case of a jump-spark motor the plug may be
removed and oil poured through the hole. Sometimes an engine will be hard to
start, especially in cold weather. If it fails to start on one or two turns it
should be primed by injecting a little gasoline through the relief or priming
cup. This will usually start the motor but if it gives one or two explosions
and then stops, the trouble is in the gasoline supply or carburetor. Always
keep all joints and nuts tight and free from wiggling and wipe all grease and
oil from your engine after running it. A good engineer can always be told by
the condition of his motor or engine and if not neglected a motor can be kept
as free from dirt and grease as a sewing machine or typewriter. Learn to know
the sounds your engine makes when running smoothly and you will soon find that
you are able to detect the least trouble long before the motor stops. Have your
batteries and wires where you can reach them quickly, and easily but see that
they are thoroughly protected from the weather. A watertight box holding the
batteries, coil, etc., placed on a thwart near the engine is very handy and is
far better than having them thrown into a drawer or locker under a seat. Fig.
6-B. In very bad, rainy weather or when not in use for some time, the whole box
can be taken out and placed indoors thus rendering your boat thief-proof and
protecting the electrical equipment at the same time. If you have a jump-spark
engine it is wise to provide some sort of protector for the plug, Fig. 6-P,
most spark-plugs will short-circuit if wet with rain or spray and cause a lot
of trouble. The “Reliance” plug will spark under water but when hot from the
engine and then wet by spray, the steam will cause short-circuiting even in
this plug. There are numerous inexpensive protectors on the market but even an
old cap or a piece of rubber cloth thrown over the plug will help a great deal.
Short-circuiting at the plug is easily detected by a crackling sound and blue
streaks of sparks running across the plug itself. In case this occurs turn off
the switch, wipe the plug dry and smear with thick grease. Have a good kit of
tools handy at all times; there should be a hammer, screwdriver, a pair of
pliers, a monkey wrench, pipe wrench (Stilson) and an “S” or Westcott wrench.
Cotton waste, oil, grease, kerosene, and extra gasoline should always be stored
in some convenient locker or box. Fig. 6 (T). Make a point of keeping your
brass work polished or at least oiled and clean and free from horrid, green
verdigris. Nothing looks worse than neglected brass work and a few moments
spent cleaning it is more than repaid by appearances and the saving of
corrosion. If you cannot keep it bright and clean, it is better by far to paint
it with a good enamel paint.
A few extra
screws, nuts, bolts, nails and some electric wire should always be on hand and
in case of a jump-spark motor an extra plug should always be carried, as a plug
is liable to give out at any time and although usually they can be repaired it
saves time and lessens danger to change to a new plug and fix the old one at
your leisure. Keep your engine covered with canvas or oil cloth when not in use
and cultivate a pride in the appearance of your motor as much as in your boat.
I have seen many a finely-finished and “yachty” boat in which the engine was
neglected, rusty, dirty and covered with old grease and dirt. Such conditions
are inexcusable and point to either slovenly habits in other matters or else to
ignorance on the owner’s part as to the requirements of a motor. No piece of
machinery can be depended upon if neglected and a gasoline motor, although so strong
and simple, is in reality a beautiful and delicate piece of machinery. Such an
abused engine may, and at times does, run remarkably well but you may be sure
that it would run a hundred per cent better if properly cared for. I cannot tell
you everything about a motor or a motor boat in an article like this but I hope
that with the above hints you will find many of your troubles ended, but before
closing I must give you a list of don’ts which every boy using a boat,— whether
power or sail,—should memorize, or if this is not possible, they should be
pasted up where he can see them at any time. I have boated and sailed for
thirty years in all sorts of craft under all sorts of conditions and have never
suffered from any accident or weather, mainly because I have always taken
proper precaution and have not been afraid to be on the safe side instead of
trying to be smart or "showing off.” The more experienced the sailor, the
more cautious he will be and lack of precaution and care only shows ignorance
and bravado. Scores of lives are lost every year by boats becoming unmanageable
or disabled and not being provided with food, water, oars or anchor.
Don’t go on
any trip, no matter how short, without oars and anchor.
Don’t go any
distance without a jug of water and a can of biscuit. It is safer to always
keep them in a locker. You never know when you may need them.
Don’t overload
your boat or needlessly go out in bad weather.
Don’t see how
close you can run to larger boats to "get the swell.”
Don’t push
your boat at full speed in heavy seas, it strains the boat and engine, throws
spray and may result in swamping.
Don’t run
before a very heavy sea, go across it diagonally if possible.
Don’t run in
the trough of the sea, bring her head up to meet each wave.
Don’t try to
lay to (keep your boat motionless) in rough weather without a sea anchor, drag
or riding-sail. An old oar, a tin bucket, a bunch of canvas, some cushions or
in fact any object that will float, fastened to a line passed over the bows
will keep your boat head to the seas and make her ride easily. If you cannot
arrange this, a piece of awning or cloth lashed to a pole, or oar, and held
upright at the stern like a sail, will keep your boat head on to the wind. If
oil is poured on your drag it will help a great deal in heavy seas and even oil
thrown overboard from the bows will do wonders.
Don’t expect
every other boat to get out of your way, the rules of the road on the water are
as definite as on land and must be adhered to. If the other fellow violates
them it is no reason you should. Keep to the rules and if anything goes wrong
it will not be you that is at fault.
Don’t go out
in misty or foggy weather without horn, compass, and bell. A small compass
should always be on board.
Don’t go out
at night without lights.
Don’t run fast
in waters you are unfamiliar with. "Haste makes waste” and a sunken pile,
stake or reef can send a small boat to the bottom very easily.
Don’t try to
come to a dock under full headway. Better stop too soon and paddle up or start
over again.
Don’t allow
anyone to smoke near your gasoline tank, or to drop cigar or cigarette ashes in
your boat, or to light matches near the bottom of your boat. Friends may not
like to obey your orders but friends are cheaper than gasoline explosions.
Don’t look
into a gasoline tank or fill it by lantern, or candle light. Use an electric
pocket search lamp,—or do it in daytime.
Don’t run your
boat when on the mud or sand if you can possibly avoid it.
Don’t let
weeds, ropes, or lines get twisted around your propeller.
Don’t start
out without gasoline, batteries, and oil.
Don’t fail to
use judgment, care, and caution, and follow all directions furnished with your
engine or boat without fail.
