1931.05
Khoja-Bakirgan
by
Leonid Solovyov (1906-1962)
The
people of Khojent have long been famous for their hospitality.
The
Egyptian guest was given the best, richly fertilized soil; the lack
of warm days was compensated for by the most meticulous care and
attention to every watering, every hilling.
With
true Eastern courtesy, the guest thanked his hosts. The best
varieties of Egyptian cotton ripen beautifully in Khujand, yielding a
harvest no less than that of their native land, the Nile Valley. The
state pays twice as much for Egyptian cotton as for American cotton.
Million-dollar collective farms have already sprung up near Khujand.
The Bolshevik collective farm’s income exceeded one million rubles
last year.
Now,
convinced of their guest’s exceptional courtesy, the people of
Khujand would be delighted to welcome him to tens of thousands of
more hectares. But there’s not enough water.
Khujand's
fields are irrigated by the Khoja-Bakirgan, a tributary of the Syr
Darya, which originates in the glaciers of the Turkestan Range. The
Khoja-Bakirgan irrigation network covers approximately 16,000
hectares of cotton, vineyards, and orchards. In its current state,
the Khoja-Bakirgan is unable to irrigate this large area.
“Look
at my head,” says the foreman, Karim-bai Shamsi (“sunny
Karim-bai” in Russian), “I have two scars on my head, and my
older brother died two days after one of the fights at the watershed.
Just ten years ago, we fought for water every spring. We’ve
come back from the fields in the evening, sit down; we’re
relaxing and drinking tea, a dutar musician is playing, and we’re
listening. Suddenly, a horseman appears, his horse all in a lather.
The horseman flies up to the teahouse, rears the horse up on its hind
legs, and throws his whip onto the ground, into the dust.
“Nau
is stealing our water! Nau is stealing our water!”
The
entire teahouse rises at once. People run out of the courtyards—some
with hoes, some with oxen. The musician drops his dutar and grabs a
log. And we all run up the ditch, toward the watershed. A fight
breaks out. Brother against brother, nephew against uncle, a stake to
the temple. There's no other way: if you run out of water, you'll die
of hunger. Look: I have two scars on my head.
I
feel his head, round, shaved to a shine.
“You
could have been killed, Karim-bai Shamsi.”
“Of
course they could. Didn’t they kill enough people?”
Therefore,
there was an ancient custom in Khujand: the guarding of the head of
the irrigation ditch was entrusted to the strongest person, who, if
necessary, was capable of engaging in hand-to-hand combat and
protecting the water.
Fights
on the watersheds have long ceased, the peasants have become
collective farmers, water is distributed according to a strict plan,
at precisely defined times, but according to tradition, the head of
the Khojent aryk is still guarded by the strongman Abu Nabi Polvan,
famous throughout Fergana, a regular winner of all visiting circus
wrestlers.
Now,
water disputes are resolved in the hydraulic engineer’s office.
Last year, two collective farm chairmen actually got into a fight at
the watershed: each of them had their sowing plans disrupted due to
water shortages.
Khujand’s
future lies in Egyptian cotton, and Khoja Bakirgan has set a strict
limit on expanding the cotton crop. Expanding cotton cultivation now
would mean drying up the vineyards and orchards. Not expanding cotton
cultivation would stunt the economic and cultural growth of Northern
Tajikistan.
“What
should we do now, Karimbai Shamsi? What should we do?”
“Stalin
knows what needs to be done. Soon they’ll start building a new
Khodja-Baknrgap.”
***
Together
with the hydraulic engineer, we arrived at the border of Kyrgyzstan
and Tajikistan, to the site of future battles for socialist
Khoja-Bakirgan.
The
hydrotechnician unfolded the map and placed it on the ground,
weighing down the corners with stones. A wind blew in from below, and
our map bulged like a bubble.
“I
love nature,” said the hydraulic engineer, “but here on the
Khodja-Bakirgan, I can’t enjoy it. The whole landscape is spoiled
by this pebble riverbed—it hurts my soul just looking at it.
Because of this riverbed, the Khodja-Bakirgan, along a
thirty-kilometer stretch from here to Khujand, loses up to sixty
percent of its water to filtration, and you see the orchards or
cotton fields withering on some collective farm. No, I don't
recognize such beauty.”
The
hydraulic engineer sat facing the Turkestan Ridge. The wind dropped a
stone and noisily twisted the corner of the map. The hydraulic
engineer recounted:
In
its upper reaches, where the Khodja-Bakirgan River cuts a narrow
gorge through the mountain range closest to Khujand, its channel will
be blocked by sluice gates at the entrance to the gorge. It will
overflow and form a huge reservoir lake in a natural depression. In
winter, when there’s no irrigation, all the water that currently
flows uselessly into the Syr Darya will accumulate in this reservoir.
Thus, by the time irrigation begins in spring, the Khodja-Bakirgan
River will have a huge water reserve.
But
this is only the beginning. It has been decided not to let the
Khoja-Bakirgan flow downstream into the pebbly riverbed, where it
loses much water to seepage. In the future, the Khoja-Bakirgan will
only irrigate the upper reaches, while the lower reaches, near
Khojent itself, will be irrigated by the Syr Darya, raised by the
same Khoja-Bakirgan. Three hydroelectric power plants will be built
on the Khoja-Bakirgan, below the reservoir. But since there won’t
be enough water to power the turbines, it has been decided to
compensate for the shortfall by using the force of its fall. A canal
will run from the river. It will stretch along the mountainous bank
parallel to the riverbed. When the difference in horizons reaches 100
meters, water from the canal will be thrown down from a height of 100
meters onto the turbines, and through them, back into the river.
Three power plants will be built one after the other using the same
principle. Their energy will rush along wires thirty kilometers away,
to the banks of the Syr Darya, to the electric motors of powerful
water pumping stations; the pumps will lift the Syr Darya water and
irrigate the fields near Khujand.
The
foaming Khodja-Bakirgan River, escaping from the turbines of the
third and final hydroelectric power station, will be immediately
captured in a new, concrete channel and diverted over hills and rocky
ridges far away, before being distributed into separate irrigation
ditches. The old, pebble-lined channel will serve only as a discharge
channel for excess water.
The
area irrigated by Khodja-Bakirgan will more than double.
The
hydraulic engineer handed me a pair of binoculars. Light smoke from
shepherds’ campfires curled over the site of the future power
plants. On the golden sandy shallows of Khodja-Bakirgan, gudgeon
stood, their fins lazily flapping, their heads all pointed in the
same direction. A woman emerged from the yurt, mounted a horse, and
galloped away beyond the hills.
“Everyone
here is waiting for the preparatory work to begin,” said the
hydraulic engineer. “You see, the yurts have already appeared here.
I myself wanted to quit this year, but I heard about the work
starting and stayed. I want to wait until all the roads in my Khujand
lead from garden to garden."
On
the way back, we stop at the Bolshevik collective farm. Here, the
millionaires, somewhat relieved from the worries of sowing, are
discussing the new charter. A gray-haired collective farmer, Dada-bai
Sarkaor, makes a proposal:
When
Khodja-Bakirgan gives us new water, we need to plant a large garden
and gradually move all the houses there.
In
a teahouse on the Syr Darya, I meet again Karim-bay Shamsi, the sunny
Karim-bay. He is a nobleman of Khojent, and the teahouse owner serves
him tea out of turn.
“I
was at Khodja-Bakirgan today, Karim-bay Shamsi. I saw the sites where
the power plants will be built.”
“I’ve
already been there twice,” he replies. “And I wrote a song. Now
my whole team sings it:
And
the cotton fields are in bloom!’,
And
on the slopes the vineyards bloom,
And
in Khujand there are white roads,
Because
all gardens are in bloom.
You
lay dry, earth,
You
were barren, earth.
You
moaned with thirst, earth,
Stalin
thought of you, earth!
He
sent engineers to Khujand.
He
sent cars to Khujand,
So
that happiness blossoms on collective farms,
He
I sent my heart to Khujand.
You
will receive water, earth,
You
will swell with strength, earth,
You
drive the shoots, earth,
I
will kiss you, earth.
Khodja-Bakirgan...
Khodja-Bakirgan...
Khujand
[1450
words]